Raasay is one of the northern group of the Inner Hebridean Islands, situated between the Scottish mainland and the Isle of Skye. It is a lovely quiet island easily reached from Skye by regular daily ferry services, making it quite feasible to combine a day return with a walk on the island. The 20-25-minute ferry ride is worth every penny for the superb views back to the Skye mountains. If the Cuillins can seem a bit daunting, Raasay’s highest point – the flat-topped and comparatively diminutive, if quite distinctive Dun Caan, is well within the ability of most walkers. Despite its modest height (443m/1453ft) it offers a wonderful panorama. During his Hebridean tour with Samuel Johnson in 1773, Boswell famously danced a reel on the summit.
[1] From Raasay pier, take the path opposite signed for Dun Caan. This follows a dismantled railway incline past the ruins of the former iron ore workings, which date back to the First World War. The path enters a forest and crosses a valley; two large piers of the railway viaduct still stand. Soon after exiting the forest you reach the minor Inverarish-Fearns road.
[2] Opposite are a car park and the old mine workings. Follow the signs for the Burma Road Trail (a reference to its construction by German prisoners of war). About 500m on, Dun Caan is signposted on the right. Go up the footpath beside the Inverarish Burn, which leads over moorland towards Loch na Mna, one of a number of picturesque lochans dotted around the hillside. You can either keep below the crags beside the loch or go along the ridge above. From Loch na Meilich, a good path zigzags up steep grass slopes to the craggy summit of Dun Caan (NG 579395).
(A) The views from here are superb, encompassing the peaks of Skye, Torridon, Applecross and Kintail. This captivating spot certainly filled James Boswell with elation: “We mounted up to the top of Duncaan, where we sat down, ate cold mutton and bread and cheese and drank brandy and punch. Then we had a Highland song… then we danced a reel…." (Boswell’s description of dancing a reel on Dùn Caan in 1773 during his tour of the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, a famous and oft referred to episode.)
[3] The simplest and quickest way back is to retrace your steps. To continue on the route, after descending from the summit (by the route of ascent) cut left to join a path that heads southwards along a moorland terrace between Loch na Mna and a band of cliffs on the east. When clear of the cliffs descend to the ruins of Hallaig (NG 592384), a cleared village. (Beware the midges around this area in summer!)
[4] The path out of Hallaig can be difficult to distinguish. It crosses a burn and goes through woodland, rounding the foot of Beinn na Leac. Once you reach the memorial cairn (displaying Sorley MacLean’s emotive poem, Hallaig, in both Gaelic and English) the going is much easier.
[5] Beyond the memorial cairn the path becomes a grassy track that provides a wonderful coast walk (views of Applecross) to the road at North Fearns.
[6] After the first house take a diagonal path downhill to the foot of a stream, then follow a path along the shoreline to Eyre Point (NG 571343) and the road back to the ferry.