Unlike the central Beacons, where you’ll rarely have the likes of Pen y Fan et al to yourself, the long ridges of the Black Mountains afford plenty of space and scope for solitude. An excellent introduction to these hills is the horseshoe route that encircles the head of the Rhiangoll valley, taking in the classic Y Grib ridge and the highest point of the range, Waun Fach.
[1] From the Castle Inn, go down the steps at the back of the car park to a rough track, turn right then immediately left and follow the path down to and across the stream. The path ascends the field, keeping close to the wood on your left. Continue ahead over the scanty remains of Castell Dinas (SO179301).
(A) Castell Dinas is a former Iron Age hill fort and Norman castle. At 450m/1476ft, it is probably the site of one of the highest castles in the country and is certainly a very fine viewpoint.
Descend on the other side to a saddle.
[2] Climb directly up the grassy slopes of Y Grib ahead of you, keeping to the slender crest.
Though fairly narrow, it is never so much so as to induce an uncomfortable sense of exposure. This is considered the best mile or two of ridge walking in the area and, when the weather’s good, the views are superb.
Although the map shows the track continuing from Y Grib northwards, there’s a much-used route that heads straight onto the undistinguished summit of Pen y Manllwyn.
[3] Turn right and head along the boggy plateau to the Black Mountains’ highest point, Waun Fach, 2660ft/811m (SO215299) – it’s marked by a concrete plinth surrounded by a morass of peat. A far from attractive summit!
[4] Turn sharp right down Pen Trumau to the col.
[5] Your ongoing route of descent is the one marked Rhiw Trumau on the map. The well-walked bridleway heads in a roughly westerly direction down to a minor road. Bear right – keeping left at the road fork – down to Cwmfforest. Leave the road and continue along a track to Panteg and back to the Castle Inn.