Sutherland – the largest, most remote and least densely populated region of the Scottish Highlands – is a wild area dominated by vast tracts of wet moorland from which rise some of the finest and most individual mountains in Britain. Chief amongst these is Suilven, situated in the Assynt district, one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains due to its remarkable outline. Viewed from the east it has a Matterhorn-like aspect. But it’s from the north and south that the true nature of this striking mountain is revealed: a long, broken ridge with three main summits of which Caisteal Liath is the highest (731m/2398ft). Though neither Munro nor Corbett, this is a true connoisseur’s peak.
[1] Start from the parking area near Glencanisp Lodge and continue along the (now private) tarmac road on the north side of Loch Druim Suardalain to Glencanisp Lodge (NC 116221). This old hunting lodge is let out for group self-catering holidays through the Assynt Foundation, which manages the estates of Glencanisp and Drumrunie that were purchased by the Assynt community in 2005.
[2] Pass behind Glencanisp Lodge, then follow the excellent stalkers’ path over undulating moorland – a landscape of pools, bogs and low, hummocky rocky knolls. Suilven’s shape changes steadily from end-on to side-on as you progress. Canisp – another detached mountain – is also in view ahead. After c.3km/1¾ miles along the path, another joins the route from the north.
A short detour to the left here takes you to the Suileag Bothy (NC 149212).
The stalkers’ path now runs closer to the Abhainn na Clach Airigh, then crosses it at a footbridge (NC 166203). Look out for a cairn marking a rough path leading off to the right c.600m/375yds after the footbridge.
[3] Turn right onto this path, which aims directly for the gully leading to the Bealach Mor saddle on Suilven’s ridge, between the western summit and the rest of the ridge. The ascending path, which is quite boggy and eroded in places, passes between Loch a’Choire Dhuibh and Loch na Barrack before reaching the foot of the Bealach Mor gully.
[4] The ascent of the gully may look intimidating, but it’s no more than a (albeit very) steep walk. Though it’s a hard pull and the erosion has become noticeably worse over the years, you gain height quickly. On arriving at the ridge all that effort is rewarded with exceptional views. For even better views turn right and follow the ridge path towards the main summit, crossing the remains of an amazing drystone wall that straddles the ridge. Some easy scrambling is involved to reach the summit of Caisteal Liath (NC 153184), from where you gaze out over a remarkable wilderness. The impressive view back along the ridge is dominated by the pointed peak of Meall Mheadhonach.
[5] From the summit, retrace your steps to the start.
An alternative route can be taken from the summit to the parking spot near Inverkirkaig.