The wild Cairngorms range is home to five of the six highest mountains in Britain, and was one the first areas to be given national park status in Scotland in 2000, when – after decades of vigorous campaigning by Ramblers Scotland – the Scottish government approved it along with Loch Lomond & The Trossachs as an early part of implementing new right to roam legislation in Scotland. Although it can get busy, the sense of space high on the Cairngorm plateau is such that it never seems crowded. This route from Cairn Gorm onto Ben MacDui is superb: the contrast between walking above steep corries and across an almost alien, boulder-strewn landscape is compelling; while the chance to spot wildlife unique to the region, like Britain’s only herd of wild reindeer, always appeals. The views are far reaching, to Ben Nevis on a clear day, and north along the coastline of Moray. However, it is the immediate, more intimate views that can take your breath away. You can feel very insignificant when amongst these mountains, but having been once you will want to return time and time again.
[1] Facing the Cairngorm Ski Centre, turn left and take the path that climbs steeply east, then south-east, onto the slopes of Sron an Aonaich. The gradient becomes easier the higher you go, as you climb the well-made path alongside ski paraphernalia, passing the Ptarmigan restaurant (NJ005049) onto the summit of Cairn Gorm (NJ005041).
The views here are exceptional looking down over Glenmore Forest and give tantalising views of what lies ahead.
[2] Descend south and then south-west from Cairn Gorm along a well worn path, crossing the broad plateau to reach the rim of the dramatic northern corries of Coire an t-Sneachda. Follow the path south-west along the edge of the corrie as it climbs over Stob Coire an t-Sneachda, where the views continue to inspire – particularly that of Beinn Mheadhoin. The terrain here can be deceiving as it comprises of many undulations and what may seem like a short walk actually takes a lot longer. Continue in a westerly direction to meet a fork in the path just above Coire Domhain (NH992028).
[3] Bear left onto this path and walk along in a south-west direction as the path makes its way across the plateau towards the pools of the March Burn and Lochan Buidhe (NH984011). The path then begins to climb gradually south along rounded slopes – the sheer scale of the surrounding landscape is incredible – with a final steepish climb onto the 1,309m/4,295ft summit of Ben MacDui (NN989989).
(A) Britain’s second highest mountain doesn’t disappoint. It can be very busy but the summit is huge and a quiet spot can easily be found. The bouldery, barren landscape affords a superb view over Cairn Toul, Braeriach and the Lairig Ghru.
[4] The descent from Ben MacDui requires following the same path of ascent back down towards the March Burn pools and Lochan Bhuidhe, to a fork in the path just before them.
[5] Take the left-hand fork and continue north along the path, high above the Lairig Ghru. It then traverses the lower slopes of Cairn Lochan, descending to a flatter, sometimes boggy, section in-between Cairn Lochan and Creag an Leth-choin, with good views down into Coire an Lochain. Follow the path as it begins to descend gradually over open ground back towards the Coire Cas car park. The outflow of the Coire an Lochain burn and that of Allt Coire an t-Sneachda are easily negotiated.
Although it is descending all the time, the path is above the height of most Munros so the views are still extraordinary, especially the natural amphitheatre of the northern corries rising spectacularly to the right.
Stick to the main path as it makes its way down north-east to the ski centre, crossing a bridge over one final burn and back to the car park.