Britain’s first official long distance path, the Pennine Way finally opened as the original National Trail in 1965, 30 years after Tom Stephenson proposed the route in a newspaper article. The journalist and walkers’ champion became the first General Secretary of the Ramblers, and pioneered the Pennine Way primarily as a means of resolving the longstanding problems of access to Kinder and Bleaklow, having witnessed the horrifying battles fought between ramblers and local gamekeepers. One of the main challenges of this route is the first section across Derbyshire’s notorious peat bogs, but this invigorating circular day walk allows you to sample the best of Kinder Scout by skirting the southern and western edges of the 600m/2,000ft massif. Indeed, after a stiff ascent from Edale it’s then a relatively straightforward and level walk, with newly-paved sections dodging the worst of the eroded peat. You can trace the original route of the Pennine Way from Edale, joining it above Grindsbrook Clough, then return on the current path down Jacob’s Ladder into the lush Edale valley. Apart from the panoramic views, the highlight of the section is probably Kinder Downfall, a high and exposed rocky chasm that eats into the hillside.
[1] From the station, turn left and walk up the lane past the Moorland Centre. Continue past the old Nag’s Head pub (SK124861), traditionally the starting point for the Pennine Way, until you reach a gate across the lane. Here take the path on the right for the footbridge over the tree-lined Grinds Brook.
[2] Bear left and at the side of the small barn take the right-hand fork that climbs steadily up the hillside to reach a stile at the edge of open country. The path now zig-zags above Fred Heardman’s Plantation.
(A) This plantation is named after a previous landlord of the Old Nag’s Head known as ‘Bill the bogtrotter’ who, amongst other things, campaigned for greater access and helped set up the local mountain rescue.
The path climbs up the nose of The Nab towards the rocks on the skyline and, where it divides, go right to reach the top of Ringing Roger (SK127874).
[3] Turn left and follow the clear path along the southern edge of Kinder Scout, above the vast hollow of Grindsbrook Clough (SK115874).
The Pennine Way originally came up this route.
At its junction by a large cairn, ignore the fork left to Grindslow Knoll, but continue westwards on the main path until Crowden Clough appears below. Ahead is the distinctive rocky outcrop known as Crowden Tower (SK095872).
[4] Keep to the main path above the Tower which now traverses a patch of weather-smoothed gritstone rocks.
(B) These rocks are called the Wool Packs and are also known as Whipsnade, because of their likeness to zoo animals
Continue past Pym Chair and Noe Stool on a route partly paved across the fragile peat. Approaching the low summit of Swine’s Back (SK079863), turn right at a large cairn to join the Pennine Way.
[5] Now head north along Kinder Scout’s western rim, via the trig point at Kinder Low, until you reach the top of the dramatic Kinder Downfall (SK084889).
(C) The infant River Kinder tumbles over the rocky shelf at this point, and when the wind funnels up the chasm it can produce a spectacular plume of spray high above the path.
[6] Retrace your steps to Swine’s Back and stay on the Pennine Way as it drops down a newly paved section of path, swinging left to reach the top of Jacob’s Ladder. Descend this steep track – a former packhorse route between Edale and Hayfield – into the head of Edale and continue along the lane to Upper Booth (SK103854).
[7] Go left, through the farmyard, to exit in the top right corner. Follow a track to a gateway then bear left uphill to a stile by an old barn. Follow this well-walked route across fields back to Edale. Emerging near the post office, almost opposite the Old Nags Head, turn right to return to the station.