The rounded summits and broad ridges of the Moffat Hills provide some of the best and most uncrowded walking in southern Scotland. This walk is one of the most dramatic in the area taking in the famous Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall (the fifth highest in the UK), Loch Skeen, and the remote and wild mountains that surround it. On a clear day, the extensive views are superb. The journey from Moffat to the start takes you along the beautiful, deep, U-shaped valley of Moffat Water, offering scope for a variety of walks on either side.
[1] Start at the Grey Mare's Tail car park.
There is a good view of the impressive 61m/200ft waterfall from the seating area by the sheepfold, next to the visitor centre.
The steep, stone-pitched path on the right-hand side of the gorge is very clear, and offers excellent views as you climb. Although carefully constructed, due care should be taken on this path (as the sign at the start warns, the steep slopes around Tail Burn are dangerous and there have been several fatal accidents).
[2] When the ground levels out above the waterfall, look for an old stone wall (dyke) on the opposite side of the burn (NT180153). Cross the burn at a safe point – there are plenty of natural stepping stones, though a barefoot wade may be necessary to avoid wet boots. Be careful in spate or icy conditions. Having forded the burn, follow the course of the dyke uphill keeping to the right of it. It is a straightforward ascent, which only gets a little rough for a short stretch on the suitably named Rough Crags.
The views become ever more extensive as you climb.
The dyke leads you all the way up onto White Coomb.
The cairn marking the very top is a hundred metres over to the left, if you wish to divert slightly.
(A) At 821m/2694ft, White Coomb (NT163151) is the highest summit in the Moffat hills and an excellent vantage point over the surrounding sea of rounded Southern Uplands and Border hills.
Return to the dyke.
[3] Continue roughly westwards following the line of the dyke - now with accompanying fence - along a well-trodden path to your next summit: Firthhope Rig, 800m/2,625ft (NT153154).
[4] Turn north still keeping to the stone dyke/fence to Donald’s Cleuch Head. From there, head north-northwest to Firthybrig Head (NT158172). Bear right (east-northeast) to descend to a col before ascending steeply to flat-topped Lochcraig Head (800m/2,625ft) – another impressive viewpoint. Note the sheer drop on the south side to the north shore of Loch Skeen.
[5] Keep to the stone dyke/fence heading east then south to descend steeply towards the dark waters of Loch Skeen. Once level ground is reached, stay by the fence until it bears left (or south-east), thereafter continue south over boggy, rough, heather-clad terrain to reach the main path at the southern end of Loch Skeen (NT174161).
[6] The going is much easier now as you follow this path beside Tail Burn back to the point where you left it earlier. Finally, retrace your outward steps, taking care on the steep descent.