Ullswater – the second largest lake in the Lake District, is widely regarded as the most beautiful of English lakes. Its long, narrow serpentine shape, wooded shores and magnificent surrounding fells make its appeal obvious enough. Every day Ullswater ‘Steamers’ sail up and down its length, providing an ideal opportunity to combine the best of both worlds: a cruise on the water up to one end, with a walk back down to the other. The boats stop at a roughly midway point, allowing the option of just doing one half of the walk or the other. The first half from Pooley Bridge to Howtown is over the low fells above the lake, affording some hugely attractive views; the second is along the lakeshore – considered the loveliest walk of its type in the Lake District. This stretch can be very popular in the height of summer or on fine weekends, so best avoided then.
[1] Begin at Pooley Bridge pier (NY 466243).
(A) Steamer services have operated from here since 1859, carrying passengers and cargo around the lake. There are four vessels operating today, two of which – Lady of the Lake and Raven – date back to the 19th century.
Turn right and follow the road over the bridge into the village. Bear right at the church and continue on the road gently uphill, keeping straight on at the first crossroads.
[2] When the road runs out, carry on along the bridleway that now climbs rather more steeply. At the first cross paths you reach, go right along to the Cockpit (NY 483223), a stone circle.
(B) As you’ll see from the map, a number of Bronze Age barrows and cairns are scattered around Askham Fell to the east of the Cockpit.
Bear right just beyond to begin a long gentle descent down towards the shores of Ullswater.
The views are especially lovely along this section.
Near the bottom of the fellside, take a footpath to the right, very near Howtown pier (NY444199).
[3] The ongoing path is now easy to follow as you keep close to the lake shore for the rest of the way. The path goes round the north side of little Hallin Fell initially - a detour to climb it is much to be recommended, for the views more than repay the little effort involved. The beautiful lakeshore path along the eastern edge of Ullswater affords yet more glorious views over Ullswater.
If, however, you'd prefer a high level route, an equally good alternative is to go over Place Fell (NY 405169), a splendid viewpoint, especially for the Helvellyn range. A footpath climbs the fellside (to the east of Scalehow Beck) up to a col from where you bear right for Place Fell. The descent is via Boredale Hause.
[4] Just beyond the southernmost edge of the lake, turn right and follow the pavement/pedestrian path alongside Side Farm. Turn right along a footpath which crosses the river and brings you out on the main road. Turn right on the road to head back to Glenridding pier car park.