The Dysynni Valley is one of the loveliest areas for walking in the southern half of the Snowdonia National Park. At its head is Cadair Idris, a deservedly popular mountain, which attracts most walkers to this part of the world, leaving the nearby hills much quieter. The Afon Dysynni – into which runs its tributary the Afon Cadair - is a green and tranquil place with a notably flat valley floor and two unusual outcroppings of rock. One of these is capped by the ruins of Castell y Bere, a 13th-century castle. The other is Craig yr Aderyn (Birds’ Rock), a dramatic scenic feature and a wonderful viewpoint. This walk visits them both, as well as the little medieval church at Llanfihangel-y-pennant. Besides Birds’ Rock, there are also excellent views from the hills on the west side of the valley over which this route leads you.
[1] The route starts from Castell y Bere car park.
(A) Before setting off on the walk, it’s worth taking the opportunity to explore the castle ruins - an atmospheric place affording good views down the valley to the distinctive profile of Birds’ Rock, which you’ll visit later. The castle was built by a Welsh Prince of Gwynedd, Llywelyn the Great, in the 13th century (an information panel on the site provides more details).
Head along the lane to Llanfihangel-y-pennant, where there’s alternative car parking.
(B) The little church here (SH672088) is also worth pausing at to look inside. It houses an exhibition about Mary Jones – a local girl who in 1800, at the age of 15, walked barefoot from Llanfihangel-y-pennant to Bala (some 40km/25 miles) to procure a copy of the Welsh Bible from the Reverend Thomas Charles. This act led to the formation of the British and Foreign Bible Society. Inside the church too is an interesting three-dimensional cloth-map of the Dysynni Valley.
[2] Continue north along the road and across the Afon Cadair.
Just over the bridge is a monument to Mary Jones, who lived in the now ruined cottage here.
[3] Turn left along a track/footpath on the west side of the Afon Cadair, following the edge of the hillside round to a lane. Bear right then left past Bodilan Fach and follow the bridleway that ascends the slopes of Mynydd Pen-rhiw.
There are fine views over the valley as you climb.
The path heads roughly north/north-west, before descending to meet a broad stony track in Cwm-llwyd (at SH635111).
[4] Turn left and keep left at a fork just over a mile along; the track becomes a lane which descends towards the Dysynni Valley. Take the next bridleway on the left (at SH624077) and carry on down to the valley road. Turn left to the bridge over the river, then continue along the footpath on the east side. Go right through the Llanllwyda Farm caravan and camping site, then right at the road.
[5] Almost immediately turn left to follow an ascending track. After 500 metres leave the track and take a path on the right up the grassy slopes of Birds’ Rock. There are two summits, the higher being 258m/846ft.
The views all the way up and from the top are superb – from the coast in one direction to the summit of Cadair Idris in the other.
(C) Birds’ Rock is thought to be the only inland nesting ground for cormorants in Europe, and probably the world. Other birds, including choughs, also nest here. The sea once lapped at the rock’s foot.
[6] Retrace your steps to the lane, turn right and follow the quiet road back to the start.