Haystacks may not be the highest Lakeland peak, but its sheer diversity and ability to reveal new charms on subsequent walks made it the favourite of Alfred Wainwright. This year marks 80 years since Wainwright first set out to explore the Lakes, a walk that inspired his best-selling collection of Pictorial Guides. The circular walk from Wasdale is a more taxing, remote walk and, as such, offers a more challenging alternative to the traditional ascents from Honnister or Buttermere. Wainwright would, no doubt, approve. Some of the scrambling sections, notably the west ridge of Haystacks, and the steep descent from Beck Head, will take some walkers out of their comfort zone. In return, however, the reward is drop-your-butties views down both Ennerdale and Buttermere Valleys, plus a chance to marvel at Windy Gap and the north face of Great Gable. For Wainwright devotees, however, the real highlight is to sit and contemplate at Innominate Tarn, just below the summit of Haystacks, where his ashes are scattered.
[1] From behind the Wasdale Head Inn (NY186088), following the bridle path by the beck (don’t cross the bridge). At the junction, keep to the left fork and head up Mosedale along the grassy path. The path becomes increasingly steep and rocky as you climb from Mosedale by Gatherstone Beck (NY182107). Cross the beck on wet boulders (take care here) and climb the path to reach Black Sail Pass at 546m/1,791ft.
[2] From the pass, it's a steep, rough descent without a very clear path initially and a short scramble beside Sail Beck down to Ennerdale. Cross the bridge over the infant River Liza at the bottom and veer left, following the good path to Black Sail YHA (NY194123).
[3] After the hostel, follow the track for 400m/1,312ft down valley and then fork right up a good path alongside an old plantation boundary. It's a 160m/525ft climb to reach the pass at Scarth Gap (NY189133).
[4] Turn right and climb the west ridge of Haystacks. There's a choice of paths, all of which involve some scrambling sections on good, rough rock. The rocky summit outcrops and the summit tarn at 597m/1,959ft (NY193131) make for a good place to break for lunch.
[5] Two paths lead eastwards down from the summit. Choose either the well-worn stony main path, or the more grassy option just to its south. Both arrive at Innominate Tarn (NY197129).
[6] Take the main path east from the tarn but, before it starts to descend to Black Beck, follow a grassy trod to the right. This wends its way among tarns and outcrops, passing the landmark perched boulder (NY202126) and crossing the Coast to Coast Path, where it climbs out of Ennerdale by Loft Beck. Climb over the grassy shoulder above Brim Crag and join Moses Trod as it traverses round the head of Ennerdale. The narrow path reaches the shoulder above Beck Head at 675m/2,215ft (NY207107).
[7] The final leg is downhill but no easy descent, dropping 610m/2,000ft over boulders and steep scree, then steep, often slippery, grass as it reaches the ridge of Gavel Neese (NY204099) with only occasional stretches of stone-laid path. The last section across the final valley floor is a gentler, one-mile plod along easy, flat path to return to the Wasdale Head Inn.