The deep Conwy Valley bisects North Wales, separating the mountains of Snowdonia in the west from the more rounded, gentler moorlands and secluded vales of Denbighshire to the east. The mountains quickly step up to the bulbous tops and sheer edges of the Carneddau, amongst the lesser-known peaks of the National Park. One such is Tal y Fan, claiming mountain status by a at610m/2001ft. It ripples as a craggy ridge through a timeless landscape, richly endowed with Neolithic monuments amidst a tracery of old fields, summer pastures and wind-riffled wastes, with fabulous coastal and mountain views. This energetic ramble makes the most of this, and visits one of the marvellous, utterly unspoiled little churches that remain hidden in the hills, aeons away from the modern world.
[1] Start from Bwlch y Ddeufaen (SH720715), continue through the gate along the moorland track, passing by two monoliths that long pre-date this Roman Road and a host of pylons. Climb the gate-side stile and turn right beside the wall. A steady, rock-strewn climb beside a wall soon ensues, with false summits taunting you before reaching the trig pillar on Tal y Fan (SH729726).
Then all exertions are forgotten; such modest effort for so-spectacular a reward. Clear days see the Isle of Man shimmering way out in the Irish Sea; closer to hand the coastal strip and much of Anglesey stand proud, with Puffin Island the near feature off Penmon. To the south and west rise some of Snowdonia’s giants, with the ridge of Drum taking the eye to the highest Carneddau and, farther south, Siabod and the Arans amongst countless peaks.
[2] Stay left of the wall for a further half-mile to reach a sub-summit, where the wall turns distinctly downwards to the right (SH736729). From this lofty point, take a visual bearing on the massive headland of the Great Orme, towering above Llandudno, and head towards it on thin sheep-paths down across the grass, bilberry and heather. A level, grassy platform is soon reached, from which look for the derelict quarry workings below and aim to pass immediately left of these. Join the old access track to reach a grassy T-junction and turn right, heading for the nearby huge old standing stone, Maen Penddu (SH738736).
[3] Leave the track, heading slightly right towards a gate in a wall. Before reaching this, bend left on a stream side path between walls. Stay beside the left wall; as this opens into a rough pasture, look ahead to see a distinctly pointy low summit and head for this. The way becomes a rough field track. Drift right to a gap at a junction of walls and a shallow ford. Continue down towards the pointed summit, reaching a gate beside ancient stone sheep-pens. Walk the enclosed track and keep right at the gate to tiny old St Celynin’s Church (SH751737).
This is an extraordinary time capsule untroubled by electricity and reeking of the Middle-Ages.
[4] Return to the sheep-pens, use the gate and then drift left on the gradually rising grassy field track around the hillside. Keep right at a fork, soon putting an old wall on your left past enclosures and the site of Caer Bach hill fort – the rimmed hill on your right. Continue over large stone steps beside a sheep fold, heading directly for the distant sharp peak of Carnedd Llewelyn. Before the next cross-wall, head left to use a hand gate (SH740723) above ruins and a lone tree. Drop half-left to a marked stone-step stile, then stay in-line down the rough fields to a track by the spectacular cromlech of Maen-y-Bardd. Turn right and keep ahead to return to base.