This shapely range of hills is often seen but infrequently visited. All most people know of these upwellings at the edge of North Wales is their shadowy horizon along the busy A55 expressway, which funnels ramblers to the familiar stomping grounds of Snowdonia. Spare a little time to explore these rounded summits however, and you’ll soon discover why they were granted AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) status in 1985. It’s the Bronze Age heritage, stunning views, comforting landscapes and almost guaranteed tranquility that make instant fans of those lucky enough to venture off the beaten track here. Offa’s Dyke Path strings along the crest, linking iron-age hill forts dating back into the mists of time, and this walk explores such timeless countryside at the heart of the range.
[1] Join the waymarked Offa’s Dyke Path SJ146658), rising steadily through rafts of bilberry and heather to reach a slate marker beside a wall. Turn left to gain the summit of Moel Arthur. The top is ringed by one of a string of hill-forts capping the summits in the Clwydian Range.
(A) The hill-forts purpose is enigmatic; home to the Celtic Deceangli people, they were secure bases where the tribes-people could live and corral their livestock against marauding wolves and even bears. Bronze-age axe heads over 3,500 years old have been found here.
Head north, to the left of the transmitter mast, which takes you through the hill-fort ditches and rejoins the Offa's Dyke Path at a stile. Trace it downhill to a lane and turn right up to another remote car park.
[2] Use the higher, right-hand gate at the back of the car park here at Coed Llangwyfan. In a few paces, fork right onto the lesser, rising path (Offa's Dyke Path) which skims the inside edge of fir woods before emerging as a gorsey, heathery hillside path.
A glance to your left is rewarded by a most magnificent panorama of the distant giants of Snowdonia.
A final hand gate leads into a wide grassy highway onto the rounded summit ahead.
(B) Penycloddiau is over a mile in circumference – one of the largest hill-forts in Britain. Recent work has revealed the bases of many round-houses where possibly as many as 400 people lived and traded. The bounding embankments were topped by a wooden palisade. The views are astonishing, sweeping across Snowdonia from the gnurled face of Tryfan south to the Arans and Cader Idris. In the south rise the secluded Berwyns; to the east the West Pennines, fronted by Liverpool’s waterfront and fringed by the wind-farms in Liverpool Bay.
Simply follow the well-waymarked Offa's Dyke Path north along the gradually declining and shapely ridge of The Clwydian Hills, dropping to a stand of pines well above a hill-farm.
[3] Just beyond these, turn back-left (don’t use the gate) along the way marked byway, commencing a pleasing, contouring walk along the western flank of the hills. The way drops imperceptibly, as un-noticed as the marvelous vista across the Vale of Clwyd is detaining. Keep ahead-left as the track turns right down to a cottage, remaining on this gated way for another 2 km to reach a distinct parting of ways at a woodland edge. Head right down through a gate and walk onwards to a tarred lane.
[4] Walk uphill and round the bends. Ignore the first bridleway right along a track and continue uphill a further 100m to another bridleway on the right. Use the gate and head half-left up to the huge field-side boulder. Just above this, use the gate into a grassy area and walk left of the barn past two pines. Join the field track opposite, with a wall on your right. Beyond a gate, drift left on the gorse-lined path to join a wider way. Keep ahead on this to reach a tarred lane and walk uphill to the car park.