Perhaps it is because the Chilterns are close to London and surrounded by dormitory towns that they are cherished by so many people. Their eye-catching escarpments are steeped in history, with echoes of a countryside given up for good in many other parts of the UK. This walk strikes out from Wendover, along the edge of the Chilterns, encompassing some of its loveliest views and the iconic and anciently enigmatic Ridgeway. It’s also an area of disputed territory, at the centre of some of the hottest debates over HS2 so years to come may show the impacts of this scheme on this slice of English countryside.
[1] From the station approach road, turn right across the bridge and then left, following the footpath sign over a stile under pylons. Cross the stile and head half-right across the field, also due to be bisected by the proposed slip road. Cross the stile at the top of the field, turn right along the lane and then first left, following a bridleway signpost and a narrow path between fences. Go straight ahead through a metal gate, downhill and over a stile, then continue half-right to Coxgrove Wood.
A glance over your shoulder will reveal picturesque views of Wendover Woods, the Vale of Aylesbury and Halton House – a former residence of the Rothschild Family.
[2] Follow the main path through the wood, with its lovely mature beech and holly trees. After passing a yellow arrow on a tree, take the right-hand path to eventually pick up a blue waymarker to the village of Dunsmore.
[3] Turn right at the crossroads by the duck pond and its fetching black and white signpost. After 100m, turn left over a stile and take the right-hand fork downhill to Cobnut Farm. Continue ahead through Godmerhill Wood. Eventually the Ridgeway joins the path and you head west towards Chequers.
(A) Chequers is the retreat of Prime Ministers since the 1920s. The 16th-century mansion is easy on the eye, managing to be both imposing but, thanks to its facade of local stone and bricks, blending in with a landscape of solitary oaks and yews.
[4] Cross the road to enter the grounds (you can’t miss the CCTV cameras), then pass over the driveway and follow the path to Maple Wood. Bear right along the path skirting the wood to a gate. Follow the right-edge of the field, with some of the Chiltern’s characteristic hidden valleys to your left. Go through another gate and cross the lane, contouring around Beacon Hill with glorious views across the Vale of Aylesbury. Exit the gate opposite pretty Ellesborough Church.
[5] Turn right and immediately right again. After 300m turn left, signposted for a circular walk. At the road, turn right, walk 100m and cross the road, following the footpath sign. At the fork in the woods, bear slightly left following the National Trust sign up a steep hill that is out of keeping with the rest of the walk. Near the brow of the hill, bear left to make for Coombe Hill and its monument.
At 260m/853ft, this is the highest point of the Chilterns.
[6] From the monument, follow the grassy track that’s parallel and to the right of the gravel track to a gate, where you cross a ditch and pick up the Ridgeway again. Return to Wendover via Bacombe Hill.
Babcombe Hill is a delectable nature reserve with willow warblers and green woodpeckers amid the hazel and dogrose.
You re-meet your out bound route just before the railway bridge.