To step onto Kerrera is to step back in time. A two-minute ferry journey across the Sound of Kerrera transports you into a tranquil, bygone world. Unless you’re a resident, no vehicles can be brought onto the island and so a peaceful, litter-free and beautiful walk is guaranteed. There is only one rough, single-track road on the island, which runs along its eastern edge and passes beautiful Horseshoe Bay, culminating in a short detour to reach historic Gylen Castle. A rougher path travels along the western side to the hushed loveliness of Barn nam Boc Bay. Back onto the road and a steep climb leads past Carn Breuagach, Kerrera’s highest point, and down to the ferry.
[1] After alighting the ferry, walk up the rough single-track road to reach a phone box. Bear left, continue to a fork, and go left along the road around beautiful Horseshoe Bay (NM827285) beneath the wooded slopes of Carn Breugach,
Here you can enjoy superb views back to Oban.
Once past the bay, ignore a track on the right for Ardchoirc (NM824280) and instead keep to the main road, which makes its way around Little Horseshoe Bay (NM818274). Passing by a row of cottages, the road then ascends and descends gently along the coast, before climbing steadily then steeply inland, past another track on the left, a farmhouse and several ruined cottages at Upper Gylen (NM811269). The road then drops steadily through peaceful countryside towards Lower Gylen, passing through a gate towards the Kerrera tearoom and bunkhouse (NM805271). Just before this, turn left though a gate signposted for Gylen Castle.
[2] Once through the gate, a grassy path makes its way over a field and then through rocky outcrops to reach the Gylen Castle (NM805265) where there is also a good chance of bumping into some wild goats.
(A) The castle has a fascinating history, as well as stunning views towards Mull. The celebrated artist JWM Turner visited here in 1831, filling his sketchbook with many drawings of the castle and the surrounding landscape.
Retrace your steps back to the road, turn left, walk by the tearoom then go through a gate. Follow the road underneath steep slopes towards the rugged western end of the island.
Here, there are more terrific views across the Firth of Lorn.
Upon reaching Port Dubh (NM798268), the road swings away from the shore and becomes a grassy track, climbing past a house at Ardmore (NM796270).
[3] A rough path passes in-between a steep embankment and continues along the remoter western side of Kerrera, with superb views of Lismore and Loch Linnhe. The path runs parallel with the coast at the foot of Torbhain Mor, eventually reaching Barn-nam-Boc Bay (NM800283).
This is an incredibly peaceful place full of wildlife, including sea and golden eagles.
[4] The path then broadens into a single-track road, which passes a cottage and the remains of a settlement. Follow the road steeply up and away from the coast.
There is an exceptional panorama from the top, including Ben Cruachan and the Argyll coastline.
From here, a steep, rough and pathless slope can be climbed to reach Carn Breugach (NM815278), Kerrera’s highest point.
Otherwise, the road meanders high above the coast and then descends through a few gates back towards the ferry. Continue along the road past Balliemore (NM818288) and then through a wooden gate, passing the old church building and several cottages. At a fork, bear right and walk down the road to reach Horseshoe Bay. Turn left and walk past the phone box to return to the slipway.