The bus (or taxi) fare to the start is well worth it, for the coastal scenery around here is quite superb; the half dozen or so miles south of Strumble Head to Aber Mawr especially so. Nowhere along the Coast Path will you find a wilder, more dramatic stretch of coastline than this. With precipitous cliffs and magnificent views, it should certainly be saved for a clear day.
In summer the bus will drop you off at Strumble Head itself, but in winter you’ll need to walk from the road junction c.2km/1¼ miles away – an easy walk along a quiet country lane.
(A) Strumble Head is renowned as a spot for watching sea birds, migrant birds and marine life. A former Second World War lookout provides shelter for wildlife-watchers. The lighthouse is situated on the islet Ynys Meicel (St Michael’s Island), separated from the mainland by a narrow gap which is crossed by a footbridge. Built in 1908, it is now unmanned and automated. Keep an eye out for seals around here.
[1] The navigation for this walk is very simple: facing Strumble Head, turn left and keep the sea on your right for the rest of the way! It’s just under 3 miles/4½km to Pwll Deri: wild, rocky terrain with bracken, heather and coarse grass.
Pwll Deri’s Youth Hostel, situated directly above the cliffs, must take the prize for the most impressive location for a hostel in Wales – if not the whole of the country. Whether sitting out or in, the views are truly spectacular. This is another place to look out for seals.
[2] If you’ve the time and energy it’s worth making a short detour to climb to the summit of Garn Fawr (which overlooks Pwll Deri), an impressive Iron Age hillfort with more superb views on offer. There’s a path to the top on the other side of the road.
For the onward route, the Coast Path follows the road for a short distance, passing a memorial to the poet Dewi Emrys, before turning off right to continue on out to the Penbwchdy headland. South of here you begin to lose height as the cliffs get lower.
[3] The shingle beach at Aber Mawr is just over the halfway point. Though the cliffs from now on are not as high and exhilarating as before, the scenery is still excellent. Continue along the coast path towards Abercastle.
(B) Abercastle is a picturesque village with a harbour once used for trading; there is a limekiln to the south of the harbour and a ruined granary to the north.
(C) Just beyond Abercastle, and a short diversion from the Coast Path, is Cromlech Carreg Sampson: a superb Neolithic burial chamber, worth making the effort to see.
[4] Another hour or so’s walking from Abercastle brings you to Aber Draw; Trefin is just up the road.
Alternatively you could turn off the Coast Path from the cliffs at Trwyn Llwyd before reaching Aber Draw.
Trefin is served by both the Strumble Shuttle and a regular, all-year-round bus service so is a good place to finish.