Unlike their Cumbrian neighbours to the west, you can wander these fells all day and meet hardly a soul. Wainwright described them as looking like a ‘herd of sleeping elephants’. The big rounded grassy slopes afford excellent walking with fine views of both the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales. This route is one of the best, linking Cautley Spout – England’s highest waterfall above ground - with a ridge-top walk via the Howgills’ highest point, The Calf and a gentle return along the side of the Rawthey valley.
[1] Follow the path signed for Cautley Spout from the lay-by (SD698969). This leads you down some steps and across a footbridge over the River Rawthey. Bear left then right along a good path on the east side of Cautley Holme Beck.
There are impressive views up the valley towards the falls of Cautley Spout.
It’s a steep climb up beside the waterfall but on a well-made path (on the right-hand side), which affords good, close-up views of the falls. At the top, continue along the north side of the stream to your left – Red Gill Beck – and when the stream divides again a bit further on, take the beck on your right – Force Gill Beck. This leads to the col between Bram Rigg Top and The Calf. The main ridge path – a stony highway of a track – runs between the two. Turn right to reach the summit of The Calf.
[2] At 676m/2218ft, The Calf (SD667971) is the highest point on the Howgills.
Not surprisingly, the views are extensive. From here radiate a number of ridges intersected by deep valleys.
Retrace your steps to the col and continue in the same direction over Bram Rigg Top to Calders (SD672961) – another splendid viewpoint. Bear right here to follow the ridge-top path down via Rowantree Grains (SD669954). Keep to the main path which bypasses the summit of Arant Haw.
[3] At a fork further down (SD658938) you have a choice of heading up or down: either take the slightly shorter route left down a descending track that leads towards Lockbank Farm or head right. If following the latter, take the clear path up the summit of Winder (473m/1552ft, SD654933).
(A) This is a wonderful spot, again with superb views. As well as the trig point there is a direction indicator which identifies the surrounding hills, and shows the distances to them from here.
A clear path descends the southern slopes of Winder in a south-southeast direction to meet the bridleway that leads right to Lockbank Farm.
[4] Instead of turning right (at SD652925) into the farm, you can follow a path along the edge of the access land area beside a wall as far as Settlebeck Gill. Turn right here, then cross the gill and continue down a footpath to Castlehaw, and across fields in a northeast direction to Ghyll Farm (SD670930).
[5] Turn right down to Stone Hall, then left to Ellerthwaite where you join a lane. Turn left. The lane becomes a bridleway that runs along the west side of the Rawthey valley, leading you back to the footbridge over Cautley Holme Beck. From here, retrace your steps to the start.