The boundaries of this varied walk are formed by the ore-rich Rhinogydd hills on the northern side of its estuary, above the Victorian seaside resort of Barmouth, and the river Mawddach to the south, with Cadair Idris (2,930ft/893m) rising beyond it. The highest point of the walk is reached within 4km/2½ miles of the start, at Bwlch y Llan (Church Pass), then follows a gentle sloping descent to the valley floor, along the ‘carriage roads’ that once linked Barmouth, Dolgellau and Harlech. An industrial history is inscribed in the very landscape at many points along the way: fenced-off gold mines, spent veins of manganese and quartz deposits; stones underfoot have been worn smooth by the passage of mine wagons and the feet of the faithful, trekking to church. The mansions of wealthy industrialists are visible in the woods on the south estuary, looking down on disused railway lines and mossed-over slate quarries. Sheep and cattle still graze the hills, however, and agriculture’s victory over other short-lived industries is spelled out in the matrix of drystone walls, so integral a part of rural North Wales.
[1] From Barmouth Railway station (SH612158) head for the High Street and turn right.
(A) Barmouth – a bastardised English version of the original Welsh Abermawddach – started life as a fishing village but became something of a tourist mecca for the Romantic poets. Wordsworth, Shelley, Darwin and Ruskin all stayed here – the latter attempted to create an experimental socialist commune for the poor in the stone cottages of the old town, among whose steep streets the walk starts.
Take the passage opposite St David’s Church, following the steps up to the right into the old town proper. Keep climbing right and follow signs for the ‘mountain walk’ out into open ground, with panoramic views over the town.
[2] At a sign commemorating Dinas Oleu (SH615157), the first land donated to the National Trust, bear right, following drystone walls through a wooden gate.
(B) Pass the entrance to the Frenchman’s Grave (SH616157), reformer Auguste Guyard, who came to Barmouth seeking refuge from persecution.
Where the footpath forks twice bear left each time, striking uphill past the Barmouth Slabs, onto the minor road leading through Gellfawr Farm and onto what was once the road to a manganese mine. Follow the clearly marked footpath around to the right, up the hill and onto the headland looking down over Harlech and Penrhyn Llyn. Keep right, cross a small stream and turn right off the track over Bwlch y Llan (SH621175).
[3] Follow the path left down the hillside, passing Bronze Age standing stones Cerrig Arthur (SH631188). Overcoming your disappointment at how small they are, fork left on to a well-made track. At the crossroads a kilometre or so further along, glance left at the start of the winter ‘carriage road’ that travellers of yore used to take to Harlech, complete with wishing well (SH637201), but turn right through fields to the valley floor, passing woods to the right, and carry on up the other side of the valley.
[4] A weathered milestone (SH655202) marks the junction with the summer route to Harlech, winding up into the hills to the left. Walk on until you reach a surfaced road, following it down as far as a footpath sign on the right; skirt farm buildings, turning left then right across a stream. Strike uphill toward a gate in the field corner, and down through the workings of the former Vigra goldmine. Cross over the bridge, keeping the river to your left, and walk until you hit a road, following it right for 250m, then turn left onto a footpath, and left at the first fork.
[5] An incline leads through fields and past fenced-off mineshafts. At the top cross a stile to the left and continue over the pass. A sign for Gell Fawr farm marks the start of downward climb to Cwm Mynach (Monks’ Valley). Keep dogs on a lead as this is a permissive path until the oak woods of the RSPB’s Coed Garth Gell reserve; underfoot lies another track used in gold mining. Keep going until the junction with the main road at Taicynhaeaf (SH689191).