St John's in the Vale, Cumbria

Nearest mainline trains stop at Windermere, where the regular 555 bus to Keswick stops at Stanah (Legburthwaite), close to the last leg of the walk (0871 200 2233, www.traveline.info).

[1] Set off along the broad, stony track signed ‘Matterdale – Unsuitable for Motors’. This is the Old Coach Road which crosses the flanks of Clough Head and Matterdale Common at the northern end of the Helvellyn Range.

As you climb steadily up, there are excellent views of both Blencathra and Skiddaw.

Follow the track for about an hour, looking out for a second stile on your right (a wooden shelter with a rusty corrugated metal roof lies just beyond on the left of the track).

[2] Cross the stile and follow the clear path that climbs steeply up to Clough Head via White Pike (just to the left of the path, marked by a large cairn).

A trig point marks the 726m/2381ft summit of Clough Head, a splendid viewpoint. 

Assuming clear conditions, the ongoing route is quite straightforward. Follow the ridge-top path south to Calfhow Pike (a small cairn), then bear left (south-east) for Great Dodd, the highest point of the day at 857m/2812ft. There’s a summit cairn and shelter not far away. Head on south-west to bag Watson’s Dodd, then south-east for Stybarrow Dodd. From here, follow the path on down to Stick’s Pass: at 750m/2461ft, it’s the highest regularly used pass in Lakeland.

[3] Continue south along the very clear ridge-top path, heading for Helvellyn, and turn right to descend the steep grassy slopes to Stanah.

The views are excellent all the way down, marred only slightly by the noise of traffic from the main road as you reach the lower slopes. You have a particularly good view of little High Rigg/Naddle Fell, which is your return route.

Near the bottom, you cross Stanah Gill by a footbridge and then go over a ladder stile onto the access drive that takes you down to the B5322.

[4] Turn right along the road past the Lodge in the Vale, then left into the Legburthwaite car park. Cross it and go left again along a small lane that leads to the A591. Turn right along the verge for a very short distance, then right at the gate and ladder stile. Follow the footpath, very soon bearing left at a fork. Although the ridge-top path that traverses this fell isn’t marked on the OS map, it’s mostly quite obvious on the ground. The unnamed highest point (357m/1,171ft) is known locally as Naddle Fell.

[5] At the lane, turn right past the church then right down a footpath via Bridge House. Turn right again along the road to return to the start. 

The lovely valley of St John’s in the Vale is one of the quieter areas of the Lake District, the fells either side of it far less frequented than many elsewhere. To the east lies the northern end of the Helvellyn range, a great ridge of fells whose highest point, Helvellyn, is the most climbed mountain in Lakeland. It can get very busy up here, but just a few miles away – north of Sticks Pass – the broad grassy tops of the Dodds and Clough Head (the most northerly summit of the ridge) afford equally fine views but without the crowds. To the west of the valley is a small, much lower fell referred to as High Rigg (also known locally as Naddle Fell), which stands on its own surrounded by its much loftier neighbours. This, too, affords solitude and super views – but with much less effort – and is a good option for a short day’s walk (with a return along the valley) if the weather isn’t suitable for the higher fells.

Terrain: Stony track and grassy fell, with a steep but straightforward ascent and descent and easy walking over high grassy tops.

Maps: OS Explorer OL5; Landranger 90.

Eating & drinking: Various choices in Legburthwaite and Thirlmere. 

Sleeping: Some of the eateries above also offer accommodation, and there are many other options in Keswick, Grasmere and Ambleside (contact the TIC below). 

Visitor Information: Keswick TIC, Market Square (017687 72645, www.golakes.co.uk).

Local Ramblers Groups: Penrith Ramblers (www.penrithramblers.org.uk); Summitt Good Lake District 20s to 40s walking group (www.summittgood.blogspot.com).

Route originally appeared in Walk magazine in Winter 2011 (issue No. 33).