The 27km/17-mile South Dorset Ridgeway is the new name for what used to be known as the Inland Coast Path, an alternative inland route for a stretch of the South West Coast Path between West Bexington and Osmington Mills, avoiding the built up area around Weymouth. It’s a very fine walk in its own right, with good views seaward from the ridges and a wealth of ancient monuments – notably tumuli/barrows, as well as henges and stone circles. The Hardy Monument on Black Down marks the highest point of the route, and is one of a number of excellent viewpoints on the walk. This route omits the beginning and end of the South Dorset Ridgeway, starting instead at Osmington and finishing in the lovely village of Abbotsbury, from where you can catch the bus back to the start.
[1] From the main road outside the Sunray pub (SY725828), head down Church Lane through the picturesque village of Osmington. Pass the church and continue up the track to the top of White Horse Hill.
(A) The White Horse is a figure of King George III - a regular visitor to Weymouth - on horseback, which was cut into the chalk in the early 19th century. The view from the top is a splendid one, with the sweep of Weymouth Bay, Portland and the harbour below to the south.
[2] Turn left along the grassy ridge-top route, enjoying the fine views and passing a number of tumuli/barrows. Follow the signs for Bincombe (via Green Hill). A broad, chalk track along the south side of Bincombe Hill leads to Bincombe, passing the village church (worth a look). Continue along the road and take the first right, which leads you up to a road junction at the corner of Came Wood. Turn left and after c.500m take the bridleway on the left through the field, passing two tumuli on the right. Continue across Bincombe Down towards the A354, and then head right alongside the road to the bridge. Cross over and follow the path, which curves north then west.
[3] The going is now straightforward as you follow the fine ridgeway path, passing many more tumuli (especially over Bronkham Hill).
Hardy’s monument is visible in the distance – a distinctive landmark in the landscape.
On reaching the road, turn left and then shortly left again at the car park towards the monument.
(B) The 22m/72ft-high monument is situated at the car park on the highest point of Black Down. It was built in 1844-5 as a memorial to Rear Admiral Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy, best known as the captain of HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (the Hardy of dying Nelson’s famous words, “Kiss me Hardy”). When not at sea, he lived nearby in the village of Portesham.
[4] Continue on the path that heads down into the woods and turn right at the south-west corner.
(C) The Hell Stone marks the location of a Neolithic Long Barrow, the earliest type of barrow. (The round barrows are Bronze Age.)
Continue on, following the Coast Path all the while.
There are more fine views from this last leg - especially from White Hill - over the coast, Chesil Beach and the Fleet lagoon. St Catherine’s Chapel, situated on Chapel Hill just to the south of Abbotsbury, is a prominent landmark.
Turn left at a track down White Hill and into Abbotsbury, and go right along the road. This is one of the most attractive and historically interesting villages in Dorset, famous for its Swannery.