Lochnagar is one of the truly classic British mountain walks; its renowned, brooding cliffs never failing to take the breath away. Lochnagar is the name given to the mountain as a whole (the highest point is actually Cac Carn Beag), which includes the dark, cold waters of the loch sitting at the base of the cliffs. A magnificent panorama extends over the wild Cairngorms and out to Mount Keen, Scotland’s easternmost Munro. Yet it is the sweeping views along the lip of Lochnagar’s stunning cliffs and corries that really live long in the memory. It certainly made a lasting impression on Lord Byron who wrote of ‘The steep frowning glories of dark Lochnagar’. Queen Victoria also ascended Lochnagar on her pony in 1861 but by all accounts hated it, stating: 'it was cold, wet and cheerless’. Nevertheless, on a good day, a walk over Lochnagar is nearly impossible to beat.
[1] From the car park (NO310850), turn left onto a single-track road, cross a bridge and follow the road past the visitor centre. Go round a barrier then turn right onto road a signposted for Lochnagar. Continue along the road, crossing a bridge over the River Muick towards an old cottage. Just before the cottage (NO299858), bear left from the road onto a path, cross a track and then follow the path past the cottage into a lovely section of woodland.
[2] The path climbs gently through the wood, crossing a couple of bridges onto open hillside, from where a track climbs gradually through great swathes of heather. It crosses the Allt-na-guibhsaich (NO291859), where feet may get a little wet, and continues to climb gradually northwest beneath Conachcraig, with the conspicuous peak of Meikle Pap ahead. Follow the track above the Clais Rathadan gorge to reach a large cairn near the top (NO284861).
[3] Turn left onto a superb path that descends west and then begins to climb steadily towards the base of Meikle Pap, steepening towards a col on your approach to Meikle Pap.
At this col you get your first real view of Lochnagar’s spectacular, brooding cliffs dropping vertically to the loch below.
Bear right to pick up a steep path, which climbs the short distance to the top of Meikle Pap (NO260860) and further amazing views of Lochnagar.
[4] Retrace your steps back to the col, then climb a steep path southwest up a bouldery slope to reach the lip of the magnificent cliffs of Lochnagar, just north of Cuidhe Crom. The gradient eases and a flatter path makes its way west around the cliffs, although in poorer weather and visibility, good navigational skills may be required and real care should be taken. The path then dips gently to reach a flatter plateau. As the path swings left (NO251854), bear right and climb the steep slopes towards Lochnagar’s summit. Eventually you’ll meet with an indistinct path that goes northwest along the plateau to reach a large cairn at Cac Carn Mor (NO246857). The path continues a short distance north to reach the true summit of Cac Carn Beag (NO244861).
[5] Retrace your steps past Cac Carn Mor and descend southeast to reach a path. Follow this a short distance to Glas Allt. Here the path hugs the line of the river, descending gradually towards Loch Muick. Above the loch the path steepens, zigzagging past a waterfall to reach Loch Muick at Glas Allt Shiel (NO275824). Turn left and follow the track above the banks of the loch to reach a boathouse (NO295844). Turn right onto a path and continue alongside Loch Muick, crossing a bridge over the River Muick onto a track (N0303842). Turn left and follow this back to the outward-bound track at the visitor centre and the car park beyond.