The North Pennines is one of the most remote places in England. A high, wild, bleak landscape of heather moorland and blanket peat, it is sometimes referred to as ‘England’s last wilderness’. At its western edge, the plateau ends in a steep escarpment, overlooking the lush green countryside of the beautiful Eden Valley. The dramatic escarpment provides an impressive backdrop to the attractive red sandstone built villages at its foot. The highest point along the ridge is Cross Fell (893m/2930 ft), a stony, flat-topped, featureless summit, which is also the highest point in England outside of the Lake District. On a clear day it provides excellent views, but it can be an inhospitable place prone to fog and strong winds, with snow lying late into the year. This long but rewarding walk is best undertaken in good weather only.
[1] At the parking area (NY651325), there’s an information panel (‘Access Land in the North Pennines’) with a map showing a recommended route marked. This should be noted as a shorter option. But for now, follow the bridleway that heads north-east.
(A) This is known as the Corpse Road because it was once used to carry the dead from Garrigill to Kirkland, there being no consecrated burial ground in Garrigill at the time.
The broad track climbs steadily and is easy to follow. Ahead initially is Brown Hill, then the route skirts round the side of High Cap. After a couple of miles the track turns left, but the bridleway path continues in the same direction up the moorland slopes (which can be a little boggy in places).
[2] Just over the brow you join the Pennine Way and turn right at a cairn. Head on up to the summit of Cross Fell, which is marked by a trig point and cross-shaped stone shelter.
On a good day there are fine views across the Vale of Eden towards the Lakeland Fells.
[3] Head east-southeast from the summit. Two prominent cairns indicate the way, and in the distance you’ll see the large white ‘golf ball’ that is the radar dome on Great Dun Fell – a landmark visible from far afield.
As you reach the saddle with Little Dun Fell, there is a crossing bridleway (the shorter option for a return route via Wildboar Scar and Grumply Hill).
Nearby is the source of the River Tees.
Continuing south east, the flagged path takes you on up to Little Dun Fell, then it’s down and up again to Great Dun Fell and its radar station, served by an access road. The Pennine Way descends the rough slopes, meeting the access road further down at a gate (signposted ‘Dufton 5½ miles’). Continue in the same direction to Knock Fell and Knock Old Man.
[4] The Pennine Way bears right (southwest) at a cairn and descends the rough moorland slopes. Marker stones with yellow arrows help keep you on the right path. Further down, a footbridge takes you over Swindale Beck and – beyond the access land boundary – you join a track leading down to a stream.
[5] Turn right on a footpath just before it, and turn left at the next T-junction to Knock. Heading in a northwest direction, follow footpaths via Milburn Grange to Milburn. From Milburn head north via several fields, then over rough ground and across a beck to Wythwaite and thence Ranbeck.
(B) As you approach Kirkland, look out for the ‘Hanging Walls of Mark Anthony’ – three ancient, low cultivation terraces, thought to date to around 1600 BC.
Continue along the tarmac lane to Kirkland, then right along the road back to the start.