One argument that can never be settled is that over which is the most beautiful of the Yorkshire Dales. These upper reaches of Wharfedale are a very strong contender for the title, and this walk from Buckden skirts the river’s edge before climbing easily to a terrific viewpoint that encapsulates all that is best about the National Park. The rippling fells and moors paint a memorable, undulating horizon, beneath which the Wharf and its tributaries curl sinuously along an ice-carved valley, richly dressed by traditional small fields and stone barns dotted between huddled villages and hamlets that shout ‘Dales’ for all to hear. Waterfalls stud the valley sides and spring eruptions of wildflowers bring exceptional colour to this sublime landscape.
[1] Drop from the car park (SD943772) to the village edge and take the rough track along the right-edge of the green; then turn right along Dubb’s Lane. Having crossed the river bridge, use the hand gate on the right, joining the route of the Dales Way long-distance path. Continue easily upstream beside the River Wharfe before rejoining the lane and heading right to reach The George Inn at Hubberholme.
(A) This was a favourite watering hole of the writer and dramatist JB Priestley.
Cross the bridge to gain the sublime old St Michael & All Angels Church. Priestley is buried here, and within the church are pews made by the renowned craftsman Robert ‘Mouseman’ Thompson – see if you can spot his trademark carved mice. The altar in the Lady Chapel was once the bar of The George Inn!
[2] Over the birdge, by the church, take the waymarked farm lane (SD926782), curling left behind the churchyard along the lower path that follows a ledge above the river – a beautiful, peaceful section of the walk. A series of gates deliver you to the farm complex at Yockenthwaite; use the step-top handgate just before the lower house before aiming for the left-side of the main farmhouse (SD905789).
[3] A fingerpost here shows the way for Cray, up a fell road. In around 300m, fork right for Cray onto a wooden footpath across slippery limestone (take care here), before another fingerpost indicates a left-turn uphill to an old wall. Bear right through this onto a gently undulating path along one of the immense limestone steps that contour the hillside. After crossing the gully of Strans Gill, continue ahead to reach the remote buildings at Scar House.
(B) There’s a Quaker burial ground here (SD921788); George Fox, the movement’s founder, visited this remote farm in 1652 and again in 1677. Quakerism was essentially illegal until 1689 and the farmer, James Tennant, was jailed for his beliefs. The walled burial ground is shaded by the stand of four sycamore trees near the house.
[4] Keep faith with the higher path, signed for Cray, which drifts round the snout of Chapel Moor and above Hubberholme Wood.
One of the Yorkshire Dales’ classic views is here: a superb prospect down the length of Wharfedale, with its quilt of walled fields and stone barns huddled below the steep woods and terraced edges of the towering fells.
The well-walked path crosses Crook Gill before reaching the hamlet of Cray, emerging on the road beside the White Lion Inn (SD942791).
[5] Walk the road uphill above Cray Gill, enlivened by countless waterfalls and shoots. Just around the sharp right-hand bend, use the waymarked gate on the right, joining a distinct, all-but-level field road that meanders across the flank of Buckden Pike.
(C) After good rain there’s a succession of spectacular waterfalls up to your left, where Cow Close Gill tumbles over a series of natural limestone steps.
Passing high above Cray, the way becomes a decent, gated, grassy trod - Buckden Rake - which drops on a pre-turnpike track down to Buckden car park.