The 148km/91-mile Llyn Coastal Path begins at Caernarfon and goes round the beautiful north and south coasts of the Llyn peninsula finishing at Porthmadog. Opened in 2006, work to improve and further develop the route continues as part of the All-Wales Coast Path launch. At present there are quite a number of places where the route has to turn inland – although the sea is usually visible – but these are being worked on to create as true a coastal path as possible. Happily you can stick to the coast all the way on this stretch of the Path, although it’s not possible to get round one small headland at high tide. So try to time your walk for either side of low tide, which will also make the beach walking easier.
[1] If starting at the bus or train station, walk down the road (Ffordd y Cob) that runs south-southeast to the seafront road (Y Prom/The Promenade) and turn right, continuing to the end. (There’s plenty of free parking at this far end of the road.)
(A)The beach here – Marian-y-De (South Beach) - extends from Gimlet Rock at the north-eastern end to Carreg y Defaid at the extreme western end. It affords a marvelous view of the mountains of Snowdonia across Cardigan Bay, while to the southwest you can see St Tudwal’s Islands.
When the tide allows, you can just walk straight along the beach, but the official route runs behind the sand dunes. From the end of the road, the waymarked sandy path continues ahead, past some houses on the right, then turns briefly right to join a track (going left). This takes you alongside a golf course. You can also walk along a path at the top of the beach, which provides better views.
[2] Approaching the small Carreg y Defaid headland you’ll see a surfaced path (with railing) going down to the beach. Assuming the tide is sufficiently low to get round the headland, turn down this when you reach it. You’ll probably have to do a bit of clambering over the rocks to get down to the beach on the other side, take care here.
If you can’t get round – and there isn’t any new signage to indicate any other way – turn up the lane and go up to the main road. Turn left and continue along this, turning off left after c.900m along a minor road into Llanbedrog, before turning left towards the beach and meeting the main route just before [3]. Or you could follow the inland route waymarked on the OS map.
Continuing along the beach to Llanbedrog, the prominent headland you’re approaching is Mynydd Tir-y-cwmwd.
[3] When you reach the far end of the beach, go past the Boathouse and up the steps on the signed path. It’s a steep climb to the top, but well worth it for the wonderful views – the best of the whole walk.
(B) The headland is covered in gorse and heather, a colourful sight in summer. Of particular note is the Iron Man (or Tin Man) which you’ll pass, the third of three which have stood up here. This one was built by local craftsmen and unveiled in June 2002.
At the other side of the headland you descend inland to a lane and turn left back down to the coast, continuing along the beach called The Warren. You join the main road for the last stretch into Abersoch.
It’s worth continuing round the little headland (and further, if you like, though you’ll have to retrace your steps) before catching the bus back.