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Pendle Hill, Lancashire -The Big End

Difficulty Moderate

Walking time 2 hours 55 minutes

Length 9.4km / 5.9mi

Route developer: Walk Britain

Route checker: Mike Brown

Start location Barley car park
Route Summary A circular walk near Pendle Hill between Burnley and Clitheroe in north east Lancashire. Fantastic views over the Ribble Valley, Yorkshire Dales and Forest of Bowland, extending to the Lake District and Snowdonia in clear weather, red grouse, curlew.
*move mouse over graph to see points on route
Getting there

 

The Pendle Witch Hopper runs daily between Nelson and Clitheroe via Barley. Timetable details via Traveline 30871 200 2233, http://www.traveline.org.uk.
Description

With its carpet of mill towns and motorways, the Burnley Valley may not spring to mind as a source of great views. Look a little to the north, however, and the prospect improves dramatically. Standing proud of the Pennines and the Forest of Bowland, Pendle Hill is Lancashire’s answer to Ayres Rock. Not as red, granted. Nor nearly as large. But a wonderfully imposing lump nonetheless, whose summit – “the Big End” – provides an unrivalled viewpoint over Yorkshire’s Three Peaks to the distant fells of the Lake District, and across the coastal plain to Blackpool and the Irish Sea.

 
It was this awe-inspiring panorama that moved George Fox to found the Religious Society of Friends, or Quaker movement, in
1652, and which in the early 1900s proved life changing for Tom Stephenson, creator of the Pennine Way. Ask anyone locally what
Pendle is famous for, however, and you’re more likely to be told “witches”.
 
On Halloween each year, the path to its summit is transformed into a twinkling necklace of lanterns as hundreds make their way to the top to commemorate the infamous Pendle Witch Trials of 1612, when Pendle Hill.
 
The Big End eleven men and women living in the shadow of the hill were hanged for practicing black magic on their neighbours. The flying witch symbols branded on to posts along the route of the “Pendle Way” footpath are one legacy of this dark chapter; the Witches’ Brew ale served in local pubs is another.
 
Neither, however, divert many of the walkers streaming along the nearby M6 en route to the Lake District. But if you’re looking for a pre-amble to the high fells, or merely a bracing half-day walk with a magnificent viewpoint over northwest England at the end of it, Pendle Hill is unlikely to disappoint.
 
Our route starts in the pretty East Lancs village of Barley, looping around the hill in an anti-clockwise direction that allows you to
savour its moody eastern flank before getting stuck into the ascent proper. The crux of the climb is a long flight of steps leading to an
inclined summit plateau, crowned by a lonely trig point. From there, you drop down the hill’s steeper western side – a slippery descent
in wet weather – to skirt a couple of reservoirs for the easy walk back to Barley, where a pint of witches’ brew awaits at the Pendle Inn.
 
[1]  Leave the car park in Barley by the path running between the toilet block and café, and follow it through the little streamside park on to the footbridge opposite the pub. Turn right at the bridge and follow the path to the road, and turn right on to the main road through the village, past the Barley Mow and Tea Rooms, and on to a bend, from where a lane heads straight on (signposted “Blacko Footpath Only”) Veering right soon after, this takes you along the eastern side of Black Moss Reservoir, with impressive views of Pendle Hill rising over the water.
 
[2] When you get to the T-junction at the end of the lane, turn left along the far side of the reservoir, then right soon after through Foot House Gate. The path runs between the former farm buildings, and onwards up a lane between stone walls to Salt Pie cottage. From a stone stile opposite the cottage, this clear footpath cuts diagonally across a field left to Higher Laithe. When you reach the latter, cross the stile on to the driveway/lawn of the end house nd look for a swing gate immediately to your right. Next, turn left  and follow the boundary behind the houses until you arrive at a stile leading on to a black tarmac lane. Then turn right  and follow the lane for a few minutes.  At Windy Harbour Farm, a short way down the lane on your right , a stile set back from the tarmac just beyond the end building gives access to a sloping, boggy field, which you cross diagonally to the left (aim for the prominent tree beyond the wall at the top). Squeeze through the opening in the drystone wall when you reach Barley Lane, and turn right. Follow the tarmac for a minute or so, as far as the turning on the left signposted for “Pendle Side & Pendle House”.
 
[3] Head left down this track, past Pendle Side farm. Shortly before reaching the second farm, a gate to the right, marked by three
footpath arrows, stands at the start of the stepped path up the eastern flank of Pendle Hill. It’s a strenuous, but steady and enjoyable climb, for which you’re rewarded with rapidly improving views over the Ribble Valley. When a drystone wall and stile are reached close to the edge of the summit plateau, the path switches back sharply left, levelling off as it approaches the trig point.
 
[4] From the summit, keep heading south along the heavily eroded path lined intermittently by cairns – though be aware of the proximity of a steep slope to your left. The route drops steadily across the black peat hags of Barley Moor to a fork at SD804409, where you bear right,as indicated by the cairns, towards the head of a muddy, rocky stream gully known as “Boar Clough”. Growing increasingly steep, the path then switches to the right bank of the stream, and crosses a tributary brook, before arriving at a second prominent junction at SD799398, where you’ll meet a collapsed post-and-rail fence.
 
[5] Turn left here and cross the torrent via stepping stones to follow a well worn path (part of the “Pendle Way”) down Ogden Clough. Once through a wooden gate soon after, continue down the path above the northern bank of Upper Ogden Reservoir. At the dam, you drop sharply down a broken tarmac track to a stone stile beside a locked metal gate. Keep heading along the paved bridleway ahead, ignoring the concrete track cutting left just before a conifer wood, and continue instead along track between the tree plantation and Lower Ogden Reservoir.
 
[6] At the second dam, head straight on down the lane winding around the foot of Barley Hill, passing a large United Utilities building (“Nelson Waterworks 1930”) and two stone gate posts. Keep to the main track past Barley Green Farmhouse and Cottage. Soon after, you arrive at a crossroads in the village: continue straight over for the car park and café, or turn left for the pub and tea rooms.

 

POI information

With its steep flanks and gently shelving summit plateau, PENDLE HILL resembles a giant whale swimming serenely above the

industrial sprawl of the Ribble and Burnley Valleys. For centuries, its moorland top served as a sanctuary for textile workers from the smoggy mill towns below, who used to climb it in wooden clogs on Sunday afternoons for a blast of fresh air. Among them was a thirteen-year-old Tom Stephenson, future journalist, rights of way activist and Ramblers’ president, who made his first ascent on a February morning in 1906, and would later describe the view of snowy Pennine fells that greeted him at the top as a revelation.
 
Centuries before Stephenson’s seminal climb, Pendle was the scene of another historic eureka moment. In 1652, while the country was reeling in the wake of the Civil War, the Christian dissenter George Fox, travelling through the region on a preaching tour, felt, “moved of the Lord to go up to the top of the very great hill” he and his companions had seen from a distance. Once at the summit, he said, “the
Lord let me see in what places he had a great people to be gathered.” 
 
The vision transformed Fox from an itinerant preacher into the founder of what would become a worldwide religious movement, the Society of Friends, or “Quakers”. Published posthumously, the account of his journey around the north of England would inspire the likes of William Pen and Oliver Cromwell, and provide guiding precepts for whole colonies in America: there still exists today a study centre in Pennsylvania called “Pendle Hill”. 
 
George Fox visited the district at a time when Lancashire ranked among the most anarchic and ungovernable counties in England, “fabled” in the words of one local historian, “for its theft, violence and sexual laxity, where the church was honoured without much understanding of its doctrines by the common people.” And Pendle was the most notorious district of all in this Wild North-West – thanks to the famous Witch Trials of 1612, in which thirteen men and women from the area were found guilty of practicing satanic rites.
 
The catalyst for the famous trials was an alleged attack on a peddler named John Law, who claimed he had been paralyzed by one Alizon Devices after he had refused to sell her pins. Without being subjected to torture, Devices made a full confession – extraordinary in its frankness, and for the fact it incriminated three other members of her own family.
 
There followed an equally amazing set of revelations as the Devices not only admitted having committed murders by means of black magic, but also identified other practising witches in the Pendle area, most of them from the rival Chattox family. The Chattoxes, in turn, spilled more beans on the Devices and their associates, whether out of revenge or as a vain attempt to secure clemency no-one is sure.
 
Of the thirteen individuals found guilty at the subsequent trials, eleven were hanged within a couple of days of the verdicts. The elderly matriarch of the Devices, a much feared witch known as Owd Demdike, died in prison before her case could be heard.
 
The Pendle Witch Trials were not only the single largest number of convictions made during the witch hunts of James I’s reign. They were also the best documented court-room dramas of their day – due to the efforts of a clerk named Thomas Potts, who took detailed notes on the interrogations and proceedings, and then published them as the Wonderfull Discoverie of Witches in the Countie of
Lancaster. With its florid descriptions of demonic rituals and spells, the account lifted the lid on the murky world of seventeenth-century witchcraft, revealing how witches made pacts with spirit animals, or “familiars”, in exchange for secret powers which they would use to kill or inflict illness and injuries on adversaries. 
The Wonderfull Discoverie inspired a rip-roaring novel by the Victorian author William Harrison Ainsworth, and a horror movie in the 1970s. Today, two longdistance walking paths and a bus route immortalize the memory of the Pendle witches, while a cottage industry in witchy nick nacks has sprung up to service a local tourist trade.
 
Pendle Witch fervour, however, reaches fever pitch at the end of October each year, with the nocturnal procession to the top of the hill held on the night of Halloween. Interest in the event soared after the ghosthunting television show Most Haunted filmed a Halloween Special there; presenters and mediums later claimed the events they experienced were among the most terrifying of their careers. While some of the old farms nestled at the foot of the hill definitely retain a spooky air, the top of Pendle itself is definitely an uplifting place. Reclined on
one of the outcrops overlooking the Ribble Valley, with the Irish Sea glinting in the distance, you’re more likely to hear the melancholic call of a curlew as it skims over the heather and peat bogs than the cackle of a wicked witch on her broomstick.
 
Townley’s Hypothesis - A lesser known claim to fame of Pendle Hill is that it was the scene of a ground-breaking scientific experiment
in 1661, when local scientist Richard Townley tested a machine on its sides that established a connection between atmospheric pressure and altitude. “Townley’s Hypothesis”, as his theory became known, later served as the basis of the more famous Boyle’s Law, and paved the way for the invention of the barometer. Robert Boyle (1627–1691) saw an early draft of Townley’s book Experimental
Philosophy in 1661, and, or so it is claimed, originally named his own theory “Townley’s Hypothesis”.
 
Notes

Terrain:  Good tracks, eroded moorland and field paths – some stepped in places – with one strenuous ascent and descent.

When:  Halloween, for the mass torch-lit walk to the hilltop.
 
Downsides: A local saying insists that “if you can see Pendle Hill, it’s going to rain. If you can’t see it, it’s already raining”.
 
Maps: OS Explorer Map 41.
 
Visitor Information:  Pendle Tourism Pendle Heritage Centre, Park Hill, Barrowford 301282 661701 $www.pendletourism.com.
 
Eating & Drinking:  Cafe and pub.
 
Sleeping: Farm , Inn
 
?More information:   www.pendlewitches.co.uk. Confessions of the Pendle Witches and plenty of background on the trials, with a good book list for anyone who wants to research the story in depth.
 
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pendle_witch_trials. A thorough account of whole Pendle Witch debacle.
 
gerald-massey.org.uk/Billington/b_pendle_hill.htm. Full text of the famous poem on Pendle Hill by the “Blackburn Bard”, William Billington.
 
More Walks: Freedom to Roam Guide: Forest of Bowland by Andrew Bibby (Frances Lincoln/Ramblers).
 
Compact guide with OS 1:25,000 scale maps. Features fourteen routes celebrating the magnificent scenery opened up under the right
to roam in the Forest of Bowland and the West Pennine Moors.
 
Walks from the Limestone Link by Lancaster Ramblers (Ramblers). Great little guide to this spectacular 21-km/13-mile route, crossing the weathered limestone ridge between Lancaster and Kendal. The guide includes sixteen specially devised short circular walks along and just off the main trail.
 
Walks in North West Lancashire by Lancaster Ramblers (Ramblers). Fifteen short walks from the Silverdale AONB down to the river
valleys and upland farms of the Forest of Bowland AONB.
 
More Walks in North West Lancashire by Lancaster Ramblers (Ramblers). Twenty short walks, this time widening the net to include
the Lancaster Canal, the coast, and access areas including Clougha Pike.
 
Walks in the Lune Valley by Lancaster Ramblers (Ramblers). Sixteen walks in Lancashire’s Lune Valley, one of Britain’s best and most
secret walking destinations. Includes the Lune Valley Ramble along them north bank.
 
Walks Round Lancaster City by Lancaster Ramblers (Ramblers). Five short walks that start in the centre of Lancaster and out into
the countryside passing the city’s most famous historical sites, including the cathedral. 

 

Acknowledgements

First appeared as walk number 30 in Walk Britain- Great Views in 2009 and was checked at that time by Hyburn Ramblers. 

 

 

  • Looking east from the Big End over the Black Moss Reservoir
    Looking east from the Big End over the Black Moss Reservoir
    By - Copyright Ramblers
  • Pendle Hill
    Pendle Hill
    By - John Gardner
  • Two long-distance walking paths, a bus route and several kinds of beer immortalize the memory of the Pendle witches
    Two long-distance walking paths, a bus route and several kinds of beer immortalize the memory of the Pendle witches
    By - John Gardner
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