If you were Dôn, the Celtic Goddess of the Sky, and had to create the perfect viewpoint over Snowdonia, you’d be hard pushed to improve on Cnicht. Standing proud of the main range just inland from Tremadog Bay, the peak known as the “Welsh Matterhorn” affords an incomparable panorama over the tops of the Glaslyn Valley to Snowdon.
[1] Cross the little footbridge at the top of the National Park car park in Croesor and follow the path to the road. Turn right when you reach the tarmac, then head up the lane through the village for a couple of mins, past the old chapel and memorial to the local bard, shepherd and book collector, Bob Owen Croesor. Growing steeper as it climbs, the lane becomes a slate track then, as it emerges from the trees at the brow of the hill, forks in two: bear right at the junction. The well worn track winds across open moorland, with views of Cnicht looming ahead. A little over 5mins after leaving the trees, look for a sign on your right pointing to a stile over a drystone wall. This leads you to the start of the path up the ridge ahead, which from this angle can look more formidable than it really is.
[2] The route from here onwards is obvious, wriggling up Cnicht’s southwest ridge. It becomes progressively steeper as you gain height, with a short, simple scramble close to the top to take you up on to the first of the hill’s three summits.
[3] From the crest, the views north take in the whole of the Snowdon massif, and Moelwyn Bach and Moelwyn Mawr to the south. Looking down the valley you’ll be able to make out Tremadog and the Irish Sea in the distance. Return by the same route.