Unknown by many, the Berwyn mountain range in north east Wales provides some excellent walking away from the crowds. The highlight of this walk is the splendid stretch along the central Berwyn ridge that includes the three highest summits : Cadair Bronwen 784m/2572ft, Cadair Berwyn 830m/2723ft and Moel Sych 827m/2713ft. The eastern side of the ridge is characterised by steep drops and crags, providing some impressive views. A gentle valley walk at the end of the day returns you to the start.
(A) The village of Llandrillo lies on the banks of the River Ceidiog which flows into the River Dee about a mile to the west. It makes a good base for exploring the Berwyns, which rise to the east and south.
[1] From the car park, turn left along the main road (B4401), very soon forking right along a minor road. Follow this to the end, where you join a track.
Fine views over the Dee valley appear as you climb steadily up the hillside. In the distance the Arans and Arenigs can be seen.
At a crossing of tracks, keep ahead and continue the steady ascent with views ahead towards the Berwyn ridge.
On reaching the pass at Pen Bwlch Llandrillo, you’ll see a memorial dedicated to a cyclist: the ‘Wayfarer’. This is also a stopping point for 4-wheel drive vehicles (since the route is a byway), which can be a somewhat unwelcome intrusion on a peaceful country walk.
[2] Any present are soon left behind as you turn right and ascend the rather boggy path (following the fence line) to Cadair Bronwen, capped by a large cairn called Bwrdd Arthur. On a clear day the views are excellent. Continuing along the ridge, descend south to a col (the going is facilitated by sections of boardwalk) and uphill again, keeping close to the eastern escarpment for the best and most dramatic views.
(B) The 827m/2,713ft summit of Cadair Berwyn – the shapely peak that gives its name to the range – is topped by a trig point, but the highest point is its southern top 200m south of the trig point, known as Cadair Berwyn New Top (830m/2,723ft). From the summit rocks there are impressive views over Llyn Lluncaws, the Berwyns’ only lake.
[3] It’s a short walk south-west to the summit of Moel Sych (Dry Hill).
(C) This is the last of the Berwyns’ major summits and the meeting point of three ridges (south to Pistyll Rhaeadr, south-west to Milltir Gerrig and north-east to Cadair Berwyn et al).
[4] Follow the south-west ridge heading for Milltir Gerrig. A boardwalk most of the way down the ridge eases progress over the rough and soggy heather terrain.
[5] Shortly before reaching the road you’ll meet a crossing track and a notice about the Berwyns National Nature Reserve here. Turn right along the stony track, which descends quite steeply through the trees down to the valley road at Blaen-y-cwm. It’s quickest and easiest to keep to the (very quiet) road back to Llandrillo (c.3 miles) - but there are paths on the east side of the valley if you prefer.