Deepest Shropshire provides one of the more unexpected links to the Olympic Games. For Much Wenlock was the home town of William Penny Brookes, one of the driving spirits behind the revival of the Olympic Games. Much Wenlock’s medieval heart was protected from the advances of post-war planners and presents an architectural dash through the centuries, from a 12th-century priory to Tudor and Elizabethan flourishes and grander Georgian townhouses – all of which would be more or less recognisable to Brookes. Along with the main sights, this walk takes in the delectable Wenlock Edge above the town.
[1] From the Gaskell Arms Public House at the top of the High Street, where it joins the A458, walk down the High Street.
(A) This is where Brookes began his Olympian procession: a pageant of flags, costumed factotums and competitors who made their way to the games venue.
The High Street is full of creaking, crumbled timbered buildings, as well as the Corn Exchange – an Italian-style arcaded loggia. Look out for narrow alleyways, known as ‘shuts’, that lead through to rear yards.
(B) Much Wenlock’s recently renovated museum, at the bottom of the High Street, is stuffed with interest. The Olympian story is retold in some detail, including the tale of William Snook, a pioneering example of a competitor willing to win by fair means or foul. Just as fascinating are sections on extraordinary geology of the surrounding landscape and the Romans, who hung their helmets here. Over the road, the Guildhall and old court house is stitched together by original Elizabethan black and white beams. The interior, with original stocks and Tudor wood panelling, is tremendously atmospheric.
[2] At the T Junction turn left and head north along Wilmore Street .
(C) Pay homage to Brookes, either at his former house (No 4), inside the Norman church opposite where a plaque commends his ‘development of the manliness of the human race’, or at his churchyard grave.
Turn right down Bull Ring towards the old Wenlock Priory.
(D) Set among grassy, leafy grounds with fetching topiary, the fragmented but substantial ruins – founded by the Saxon saint Milburga – are an utter enchantment.
[3] As you approach the priory car park, take the path to the left uphill through a kissing gate. Keep straight on avoiding the right hand path, to a lane and turn right to pass the old station house – built by Brookes for a railway later axed by Beeching.
Ahead go through the wooden gates into Gaskell Fields.
(E) This was the venue for Brooke’s Olympian Games, which still take place every year. Events were a mixture of the serious – pole vaulting and tilting (threading a lance through a ring while hurdling on horseback) – and lighthearted (blindfold wheelbarrow races and penny farthing cycling sprints). Women’s competitions were limited to handicrafts and choral singing. The fields, lined by 42 lime trees, remain glorious.
Walk ahead, with the fields on your left, to the bottom corner then turn left on the path that leads behind the bowling club and school.
Up to the right is a stone tower perched on a grassy bank popular with the games’ Victorian spectators; this is well worth a short detour which involves a short climb to splendid views.
[4] The path meets Farley Road, turn right onto the footpath here and after 20m turn left through a gate. Walk uphill through a field to another gate with wonderful views of The Wrekin ahead. Then keeping straight ahead on the path to the edge of the wooded escarpment ahead. Bear left, with a fenced field on your left and Edge Wood on the right.
(F) This is Wenlock Edge, the graceful curving limestone ridge that pushes upwards from the town to Craven Arms, 30km/18 miles to the south-west. The ridge is topped by pollarded woods that tumble down steep scarps to the plains, and is pock-marked by quarries.
Keep ahead for 1km along the ridge to a T-junction of paths, and turn left downhill and then right along a track to reach the A458 Shrewsbury Road.
[5] Turn right up the road with care – there’s no pavement and cars are fast and close – to the bridleway and Shropshire Way on your left. Follow the main track to the brow of the hill and bear left, following signs for the Much Wenlock circular walk. This leads through the woods via up-and-down steps and a dog-leg (signposted for the Much Wenlock circular) above Stokes Farm. The path then comes out into open ground and descends to woodland and another junction of paths with well marked signposts.
[6] Take the left track signposted to 'Much Wenlock ¾ mile’ and follow the path through Blakeway Hollow, before turning left onto the B4371 and then right onto the A458. Keep on the left hand footpath and down to return to The Gaskell Arms.