The Rhinogs – or Rhinogydd in Welsh – derive their name from the two best known peaks, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach, which lie in the notoriously rocky, heather-clad northern end of the range. This is some of the wildest country in Wales, and not easy under foot. The southern half, however, is mostly grassy terrain, with good clear paths and tracks to follow. This walk takes you into some quite remote surroundings and includes the southern Rhinogs ridge, from where there are excellent views south across the Mawddach estuary towards Cadair Idris. The southern section of the Ardudwy Way - a signposted route of 24 miles from Barmouth in the south to Llandecwyn in the north – links Tal-y-bont, near Dyffryn Ardudwy, with Barmouth but by a shorter route, missing out the fine ridge-top section. However, you’ll join the Ardudwy Way for the final stretch down to Barmouth.
[1] Follow the road from the station (SH582233), ignoring the turn to the left, then fork right along a lane to the main road. Turn right and soon leave the road, bearing left up a path beside the school signed to Dyffryn Burial Chamber. This leads you to the Neolithic tomb.
(A) Comprising two chambers of different phases, the tomb was originally covered by a stone cairn.
Continue on the footpath that goes diagonally right across the field and follow the yellow footpath waymarks, which will lead you to a road (Ffordd Gors). Turn left along this to its end, bearing right past the entrance drive to Cors y Geddol Hall.
[2] Pass the car park and continue along the walled track, which turns right then left further on.
Looking north-west you can see the long finger of the Lleyn Peninsula stretching out into the sea. The big rounded hill ahead of you is Moelfre.
A path joins from the left – the route of the Ardudwy Way, which is followed for a short distance. Soon, leave the track and take the path on the right that leads down to Pont-Scethin.
(B) Scethin Bridge was once an old pack-horse bridge used by drovers.
Cross and bear round to the right briefly, then keep ahead where the Ardudwy Way turns right and continue uphill. Just after the path does a sharp right turn, you’ll pass a memorial to one Janet Haigh. ‘who even as late as her eighty-fourth year, despite dim sight and stiffened joints, still loved to walk this way from Talybont to Penmaenpool’. The track leads you steadily up to the col on the ridge.
[3] The ascent continues as you turn right (keeping the wall on your left) and follow the ridge south-south-west over Llawlech, descending to the col of Bwlch y Rhiwgyr. The lovely Mawddach valley lies over to your left.
[4] Go through the gate at the col and turn right. (The Ardudwy Way also crosses this col but carries on downhill.) With the wall now on your right, carry on up the ridge along a somewhat stonier path to reach the trig point. Continuing ahead, you’ll cross another stile. When you reach the next stile on your right, don’t cross but follow the wall down on your right (quite steep near the end, though you’re on grass).
You’ll see a mast below, and there are marvellous views of the Mawddach estuary and Cadair Idris.
[5] Turn right along a footpath via Bwlch y Llan. You’re now back on the Ardudwy Way, which is followed for the rest of the walk. The Way leads to a house, Gell Fawr, where it turns right. Further on down you pass some ruins. There are more superb views over Barmouth and the Mawddach estuary as you descend, joining a lane at the end where you turn left down to the town.