For a description of all the mines and quarries which used to pock-mark the area see the Shropshire Caving and Mining Club Newsletter 'Below' from 1997 to 2001 at http://www.shropshirecmc.org.uk/below/1997_3w.pdf
(A) The Hay Inclined Plane. The Shropshire Canal (built 1792 closed 1944) and its branches served the Ironbridge and (what is now) Telford areas, linking Coalport with Pave Lane near Newport. Via connections it reached Shrewsbury and Newport (Shropshire).
It was essentially a local operation, using box-shaped tub boats 20 feet long with a load capacity of 5 tons to serve the hundreds of small mines, quarries, foundries, ironworks, potteries and other industries in the area. The short boats allowed the use of inclined planes rather than locks to get up and down slopes. There were, in fact, seven of these on the system.
On the Hay incline twin railway tracks were laid on the incline. The tub boats ascended and descended the inclined plane on wheeled cradles which ran on the rails and were connected by a rope to partially balance the load. A small steam engine was provided to drive the winding drums. This was of Heslop's design, a twin-cylindered rotative beam engine, to a design patented in 1790. The remains of the brick boiler house and winding mechanism may be seen at the top of the incline.
At the bottom of the incline the rails went underwater allowing the cradle to become submerged and the tub boat to either float free or be floated into position. At the top of the incline the rails also started under water then climbed a short slope out of the water to the top of the incline.
At the bottom of the incline a short stretch of canal served the Coalport china factory and extended to a large transhipment warehouse which was built overhanging the river Severn. There was no exit for the tub boats onto the river. The warehouse was later converted for use by the railway.
For a very full description of the Shropshire canal system see www.Shropshirecanals.co.uk
(B) The Coalport China Museum & Coalport Youth Hostel. The museum presents the history of Coalport China, a manufacturer of fine English chinaware which was based on the site between 1795 and 1926. Production moved to Staffordshire in 1926, and, although the Coalport name was retained as a brand, the company subsequently became part of the world famous Wedgwood group.
As well as original examples of historic china, there are also demonstrations of traditional ceramic techniques and original industrial buildings including kilns to fire the pottery. The collections include the official National Collections of Caughley and Coalport china.
There is a hands-on workshop area where painting activities are provided and ceramic activities in the school holidays.
The original John Rose building of 1795 is now a Youth Hostel and café
For a visit see www.visitironbridge.co.uk/world-heritage-site/
(C) The Silkin Way. Is a cycleway opened in 1977 from Coalport Bridge to Bratton through the centre of Telford. A one time Member of Parliament for Peckham and Deputy Leader of the House of Lords, Lewis Silkin was instrumental in the Labour Government's rebuilding policy after World War II. This included the 1949 Access to the Countryside Act and New Towns Act of 1963. As a New Town, Telford has honoured Lord Silkin by naming this long distance path after him.
Where you are standing is the trackbed of the old LNWR Hadley to Coalport branch built in 1857, linking Hadley to Coalport. The line passed the entrance to Blists Hill Ironworks and went through a tunnel and down a 1 in 31 gradient (the steepest passenger line gradient in the country) then under the Hay Inclined Plane to a terminus under Coalport Bridge. Passenger service ended in 1952 and the line closed fully in 1964. At Coalport the railway used as a goods shed the transhipment shed originally built by the Shropshire Canal Company.
For the Silkin Way see http://greatdawley.org/dawleypress/wp-content/uploads/silkinway2009.pdf
For the railway see www.madeleylocalhistory.org/railways/index.html
(D) The Monarch’s Way. Is a 615 mile long distance footpath approximating the escape route used by Charles 2nd in 1651. It symbolises Charles’s attempt to escape into Wales across the Severn. Finding this impracticable he stayed in King Charles’ Barn in Church Street, Madeley before retreating.
For a full description see Wikipedia and for the map of the route see www.gps-routes.co.uk.
(E) Blists Hill Victorian Town. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Blists Hill was an industrial region consisting of a brick and tile works, blast furnaces and coal, iron and fireclay mines operated by the Madeley Wood Company.
Originally called Blists Hill Open Air Museum, opened in 1973, the town has been slowly growing ever since. The museum's buildings include those that were already part of the industrial site (e.g. the brickworks and newly built or rebuilt structures which as the museum’s name suggests are arranged in the form of a industrial village of the Victorian era.
For information on a visit see www.ironbridge.org.uk/our-attractions/blists-hill-victorian-town/
(F) Lee Dingle Bridge and the Meadowpit Colliery Tramway. Lee Dingle Bridge was built as late as 1859 to take the tramway from Meadowpit Colliery directly to Blists Hill Ironworks. The tramway went up an inclined plane at the back of the All Nations pub. There is still a footpath all along the line to the colliery (SJ 690040) and beyond. Note the cast iron details on the bridge.
For the full route see www.old-maps.co.uk
(G) The All Nations Inn. The All Nations, in Coalport Road (still known to most locals as Dabley Lane), is a particular favourite amongst real ale enthusiasts, having appeared in every single edition (38 to date) of the Campaign for Real Ale's Good Beer Guide. The pub was run by the Baguley family for many years. Christopher Baguley had been the main contractor for the Coalport to Hadley branch railway, responsible for all the stations except Malinslee.
See www.shiresbrewery.co.uk/All_Nations_History.pdf
(H) Ironbridge Power Station. The existing station is Ironbridge B, built 1963 to 1969. In 2012 one generating unit was converted to run on biomass. The station is due to close in 2015, or maybe even earlier. The cooling towers were deliberately coloured using red pigment to tone with the local sandstone.
(I) Madeley Wood Old and New Methodist Chapels. The old chapel is an early Wesleyan Methodist chapel erected in 1777 by John Fletcher of Madeley. The chapel has a tablet over the doorway but it is without inscription and there is a lunette in the gable above. The chapel continued in use until it was replaced by the new chapel opposite, built in 1837. Grade II listed, now a private house.
(J) John W Fletcher Memorial School. A Wesleyan Infant School (now private), this has a very interesting combination of coloured brickwork and tiles and has a plaque on the tower in Fletcher’s memory stating that he was 25 years a vicar of the parish.
For the life of John Fletcher see http://www.tf7.org.uk/about/history/fletcher/
(K) Billy Wright’s House. The birthplace of William Ambrose (Billy) Wright 1924-1994. Billy spent his whole career at Wolverhampton Wanderers. The first football player in the world to earn 100 caps, Wright also holds the record for longest unbroken run in competitive international football; he made a total of 105 appearances for England, captaining them a record 90 times. He married Joy Beverley of the Beverley sisters.
(L) The Belmont Road Workhouse. From around 1766, the poor of Madeley were "farmed" by a contractor who operated a workhouse at Madeley Wood but the parish took over direct responsibility in the 1780s. The Belmont Road workhouse was built to the east of Ironbridge in 1796-7 at a cost of £1,000. It became overcrowded but the Board of Guardians were reluctant to replace it. Eventually, in December 1868, the Poor Law Board closed down the old workhouse and the Guardians agreed to a new building, which still exists on Beech Road.
(M) The Rotunda. The Sabbath Walks, a series of paths through the woodland around Coalbrookdale, were laid out in 1782 by Richard Reynolds, a Quaker ironmaster who was closely associated with the Darby family and the Coalbrookdale Ironworks. These provided an area where visitors, workers and their families could walk on Sundays, as an alternative to visiting public houses. They included the Rotunda (demolished 1804) and the Doric Temple, neither of which survive.
(N) Coalbrookdale Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. Built in 1885 to commemorate the centenary of the death of John Fletcher.
(O) The Coalbrookdale Company. Iron and steel were made in Coalbrookdale long before the industrial revolution, probably early in the 17th century. But it was not until Abraham Darby I rebuilt the old furnace of 1658 in 1707 and used coke to smelt iron that the industry started to grow. He first made cooking pots, but over time expanded the works to make all sorts of cast iron objects including steam engine cylinders (1722), railway rails (1767) and, of course, the first iron bridge (1779), the River Tern Aqueduct (1796), a locomotive (1802) , a steam boat (1804). The works made the patterns for the Albert Edward bridge of 1864.
Between 1917-1918 and 1939-1944, the works made munitions, bombs, grenades and gun carriages.
1946 marked the design and development of the Rayburn cooker on the Coalbrookdale site. The Aga cooker is made by the foundry, but is actually of Swedish design.
The company now has 2 units, the foundry at Coalbrookdale and a factory in Ketley, Telford, which deals more with assembly & sales.
(P) The Museum of Iron & Enginuity. The building is a Coalbrookdale Company warehouse built circa 1792, clock tower added 1843. In the grounds you can see the original Darby Furnace used to smelt iron - including that used in the construction of the famous Iron Bridge. The Museum of Iron is located in a former warehouse which contains a variety of iron history related exhibits, including a collection of fine art castings.
In an adjacent building you will find Enginuity - an interactive design and technology centre that aims to inspire and capture the imagination of everyone intrigued by the secrets of how things around them are made and how they work.
See http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/our-attractions/enginuity/
(Q) The Coalbrookdale Blast Furnace. Famous for being the first place that iron was smelted by coke. This is apparently disputed, but the furnace, built in 1658 and converted by Abraham Darby I, was the first to be used successfully for a long period.
(R) The Darby Houses and Teakettle Row. Dale House, Rosehill House and the Chestnuts are impressive 18th and 19th century houses built to accommodate successive generations of the Darby family.
In Rosehill House many of the rooms are lavishly decorated with the original furniture. Dale House includes the original wood-panelled study, where the great Quaker Ironmaster Abraham Darby III finalised his preparations and plans for the construction of the world’s first Iron bridge
In addition to the houses of the ironmasters, the Ironbridge Gorge also has some excellent examples of philanthropic workers’ housing; these provided decent accommodation, sanitation, brew houses and garden plots. Four such rows still remain in the Gorge; Tea Kettle Row dating from the 1740s, and Engine Row, Carpenter’s Row and Charity or Widow’s Row which date from the 1780s.
Tea Kettle Row, which consists of 6 terrace cottages, was built in 1745 for the workers employed by the Darbys in their Ironworks.
For a visit, see http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/our-attractions/darby-houses/
(S) The Rope Walk. The lane was once a tramway and then a place for winding ropes. All traces of these are long gone. The main part of this walk is along the wall of an old deer park belonging to the Darbys, where meadows and woods have been regenerated. The land has been left to grow as wildflower meadows, untouched by sprays of any kind. There are paths off the main flat walk which will lead you down to a brook or up over a hillside.
(T) The Valley Hotel. Originally Severn House, built in 1757 by George Goodwin (1719-1773) of Coalbrookdale, a Master Collier and partner in The Madeley Wood Colliery. The house then passed to Sarah Darby, the daughter of Abraham Darby II, then to the Dickenson family, and finally the Maws. It is now a hotel.
See: http://www.thevalleyhotel.co.uk/hotel-information/history/
(U) Dale End Park. The park was originally the gardens of the Rawdon-Smith family whose house you see at the entrance. There are lovely specimen trees, a cast iron bench made by the Coalbrookdale Company in the round garden bed area and in season a good variety of colour from the annuals and a nice selection of roses and climbers.
(V) The Quaker Burial Ground. Abraham Darby I was buried in the Quaker Burial Grounds at Broseley in 1717. His son Abraham Darby II then acquired the land at Coalbrookdale for the Quaker “Friends”. Abraham Darby II, his wife and Abraham Darby III (builder of the Iron Bridge) are all buried here. The stones are simple and now all lean against the walls, but are hard to read. The top of the land is dominated by two American Redwood (Sequoia) trees. The last Darby to be buried in the grounds was Rebecca in 1908 and the last burial to take place was in 1982.
(W) The Arboretum. The Coalbrookdale Arboretum was created by the Darby and Goldney families, providing a peaceful setting for the Darby Houses. It is now being restored.
See the friends' site http://coalbrookdalearboretum.wordpress.com/
(X) The Foundry Masters House. A small house which, as its name suggests was built for the master of the Coalbrookdale Foundry. Note the size of the chimneys! Now a bed and breakfast hotel.
(Y) Holy Trinity Church. After 3 generations of Darby’s being Quakers, Abraham Darby IV donated money to the town to construct this church. Built 1850-1854.The church has ironworks visible in the churchyard starting with the iron gates, gravestone surrounds, iron grave markers of varying designs, wonderful stained glass Flemish windows, ten bells in the clock tower which ring regularly, stone carvings of members of the Darby family above the carved pews, an amazing painted ceiling given by Muriel Cope-Darby in memory to her brother Lt. Morris Alfred Alexander Darby who fell in war overseas in 1915.
Since the Fourth generation of Darby’s converted to Anglicanism, they are buried in the churchyard as are the parents of Captain Mathew Webb, first man to swim the English Channel.
Z) Ironbridge Coalbrookdale Youth Hostel. Established 1853 by the Coalbrookdale Company as a literary and scientific institute, later a school of art. The War memorial is for The Great War 1914-1919, and the war of 1939-1945. There is a list of 170 names on the memorial which included not just residents of the area, but also workers from the foundries.
(AA) Merrythought Bears. For the full story, see Wikipedia
(AB) Museum of the Gorge. Originally a transhipment warehouse connected to the Coalbrookdale works by a tramway running down Dale Road.
The Museum of the Gorge provides a fascinating insight into the history of the Ironbridge Gorge:
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View what life was like in the Gorge in 1796 with the help of a giant 12 metre long model. Spot a Royal carriage crossing the Iron Bridge, the cargo on a Severn Trow and a tiny figure toiling in a coalmine.
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Watch a film about the history of the Ironbridge Gorge
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Discover more using interactive computers
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Look at local iron products on display
See: http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/our-attractions/museum-of-the-gorge/
(AC) The Iron Bridge. Was the first arch bridge in the world to be made of cast iron, a material which was previously too expensive to use for large structures. However, the new furnace nearby lowered the cost and encouraged local engineers and architects to solve a long-standing problem of a crossing over the river.
In 1773, Thomas Farnolls Pritchard wrote to a local ironmaster, John Wilkinson of Broseley to suggest building a bridge out of cast iron. By 1775, Pritchard had finalised the plans, but he died in December 1777, only a month after work had begun. Abraham Darby III, who was the grandson of the first foundry owner and an ironmaster working at Coalbrookdale in the gorge, was commissioned to cast and build the bridge. The iron for the new bridge was cast at his foundry. The bridge was raised in the summer of 1779, and it was opened on New Year's Day 1781.
Shares were issued to raise the £3,200 required, and Darby agreed to fund any excess. Although it had been predicted that 300 tons of iron would be needed (costing £7 a ton), in the end 379 tons were used, costing Darby and his company nearly £3,000. There would be many other costs to bear (masonry abutments, assembly, etc.), so that the project was far more expensive than first envisaged. Darby bore most of the cost overrun, and was in debt for the rest of his life.
Being the first of its sort, the construction had no precedent; the method chosen to create the structure was therefore based on carpentry Each member of the frame was cast separately, and fastenings followed those used in woodworking.
Just a few years after the construction of the bridge, cracks appeared in the masonry abutments, partly caused by ground movement. By 1802, the southern stone abutment had to be demolished and replaced with temporary wooden arches before eventually being replaced by iron arches.
In 1972, it was found that inward movement of the bridge abutments had compressed the bridge and caused the centre of the arch to rise by a few feet. A programme of major repairs took place on the foundations of the bridge, involving the creation of a reinforced concrete counter arch under the river, which resists the compressive force from the abutments.
(AD) The Tontine Hotel. A Tontine is “an annuity scheme by which several subscribers invest in a common fund out of which they receive an annuity that increases as subscribers die until the last survivor takes all”.
The idea of building a hotel here started as soon as people realised the attraction of the Iron Bridge. Those involved in the venture included Abraham Darby III, Samuel Darby, William & Richard Reynolds, John Wilkinson and Joseph Rathbone.
The hotel opened in 1784. Inside are Victorian fireplaces with the traditional tiles of the area, photographs showing the area in different stages, with coracle men and their coracles, people standing on the river under the bridge when it froze 5th February 1917, collections of old local bottles etc.
(AE) The Severn Way and Severn Valley Railway. The Severn Way Follows the course of the Severn for more than 200 miles from its source at Plynlimon to Bristol. Locally it follows the line of the Severn Valley Railway, which used to run from Shrewsbury to Kidderminster, and is now preserved from Bridgnorth to KIdderminster .
See www.svr.co.uk
(AF) Bedlam Furnaces. The Bedlam Furnaces of 1750 were owned by the Madeley Wood company, then were taken over by Abraham Darby III of the Coalbrookdale Company in 1776.
The name Bedlam Furnaces may have originated with a painting by John Sell Cotman who painted the furnace in 1803 and titled it ‘Bedlam Furnace Near Irongate, Shropshire’. He was on tour with a fellow less well known artist called Paul Sandby Munn who also painted the same subject and titled it ‘Bedlam Furnace, Madeley Dale, Shropshire’. It was both a metaphor (the place appeared to the painters to resemble a lunatic asylum), and simultaneously a jest at the expense of John Fletcher then famous Methodist preacher.
(AG) Coalford Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. Built in 1825 for £275. Used until 1980 and now the home of the Jackfield (Elcock Reisen) Brass Band, which itself dates from 1893. The interior has been preserved in the Blists Hill Museum.
(AH) Jackfield Bridge and the Haynes Memorial Bridge. The existing steel bridge was built in 1993 by McAlpines to replace the Haynes Memorial (free) Bridge built in 1909 in reinforced concrete. A portion of the original is preserved, along with a memorial plaque.
The original bridge was built by Francois Hennebique, who patented reinforced concrete in 1892. Amongst 7000 structures his company built is included part of the Brooklands racing circuit (1906-7).
(AI) Calcutts House. Dating from 1755. Now a B&B. Calcutts foundry was sited here until 1828. After this the site became a vast clay pit serving the needs of the several tile factories in the vicinity.
(AJ) Jackfield School. Built 1844, now a private house.
(AK) Jackfield Tile Museum. Craven Dunnill & Co. Ltd. was formed on 9 February 1872, by Yorkshire businessman Henry Powel Dunnill (1821–95). Initially based in old buildings in Jackfield, the firm relocated to this factory, known as the 'Jackfield Works', on 25 February 1874, which was designed by Charles Lynam and constructed in the Gothic Revival style with a characteristic 'long and thin' plan, enabling raw clay to enter at one end, and finished products to emerge at the other.
Craven Dunnill became well known for its encaustic tiles in imitation of medieval originals. These are tiles in which the pattern is made using different coloured clays rather than glaze, and so are more wear-resistant in floors. The tiles were extensively used in churches, such as at Kemberton church, Chester Cathedral and Shrewsbury Cathedral. The firm also made decorative mosaic, photographic, painted, lustre, transfer-printed, and relief-moulded tiles. A small quantity of art pottery was produced by Craven Dunnill, decorated with relief-moulded patterns and lustre glazes.
Craven Dunnill moved to Bridgnorth, Shropshire as a tile distribution company after tile production ceased at their Jackfield Works in 1951. The historic Jackfield Works site was acquired by the Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust in 1983, and part of it is now managed as the Jackfield Tile Museum, one of many museums operated by the Trust. Craven Dunnill returned to the site as Craven Dunnill Jackfield Ltd in 2001, reviving the manufacture of commercial tiles there after a gap of around fifty years.
A hideous new construction (the Fusion building) has been inserted into the original factory.
(AL) The Severn Trow. A 400 year old pub and boatman’s brothel, now a B&B (without the original features!)
For the fascinating history of the building see www.severntrow.co.uk/styled-9/styled-14/
AM) St Mary the Virgin Church. St Mary the Virgin, erected in 1863. Designed by Sir Arthur Bloomfield it is constructed of varied local brick and bears a passing resemblance to Keble College Chapel. The floors contain excellent examples of local tiles, and the sanctuary windows are claimed to be of the school of the Pre-Raphaelites. Some of the woodwork dates to the mid 1700s and was removed from an older chapel of ease. There are some exceptional examples of furniture from the 1600s.
The church is Grade II listed but is at risk. See www.english-heritage.org.uk/caring/heritage-at-risk/case-studies/church-st-mary-the-virgin
(AN) Maws Tile Factory. The Maws & Co Encaustic Tile works, which was once the largest employer in the area, was in operation from 1883-1969. Following its closure the majority of the site was demolished. What remains today are the original office blocks, press shops and the grinding mill buildings which house the present day craft workshops and tea room.
The company was formed in 1850 by George Maw and his brother Arthur. Their father John Hornby Maw, was a surgical instrument manufacturer who made his fortune by the invention of the baby's feeding bottle. In 1852 they relocated to the Benthall Works at Broseley and in 1883 moved to this site at Jackfield covering five acres with every convenience in services and layout.
At the height of the tile boom the company produced over 20 million tiles a year and published lavishly printed catalogues. Maw’s “lists of persons and establishments supplied” ran to five pages and included the Royal Family, Alexander II of Russia, two maharajas, nine dukes, twelve earls, the railway companies, thirteen cathedrals, thirty-six hospitals, fifty-three public buildings, nineteen schools and colleges, and five warships.
Prestigious orders came to the Maws Company as a result of participation in international exhibitions such as the Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition of 1876, the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1878 and 1889 and the Chicago Exhibition of 1893. In 1867 Maws were the first company to reproduce the celebrated transparent celest or turquoise blue of the ancient Chinese enamels. For the Paris exhibition of 1878 they produced an important novelty the “rediscovered” lustre-wares. This was to become an important part of their production and many of the vases produced by the company bore this form of decoration.
At the end of the century Maw’s was the largest tile factory in the world. Art Nouveau designs were followed by unique Art Deco geometric styles. Unfortunately the recession at the end of the First World War and building restrictions and the closure of the railway in the decades following World War II were very detrimental for tile production in Jackfield and eventually the factory closed in January 1970.
See www.mawscraftcentre.co.uk/history.php
(AO) The Jackfield Memorial Bridge. The footbridge opened in 1922 as a memorial to the 26 servicemen from Jackfield and Coalport who had lost their lives in the 'Great War'. Paid for by public subscription, it replaced the old fare paying Tuckies ferryboat that linked the two communities. The new free footbridge made it much easier and safer for workers and families to commute from one side of the river to the other. The bridge was dismantled, repaired and put back in place in 2000.