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Gunnerside and Melbecks Moor, North Yorkshire

Difficulty Leisurely

Walking time 2 hours 57 minutes

Length 9.5km / 5.9mi

Route developer: Neil Coates

Route checker: Paul Shepherd

Start location Gunnerside
Route Summary A 3-hour circular walk from Gunnerside in the upper Swale Valley, North Yorkshire taking in old lead mine workings and Melbecks Moor.
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Getting there

Gunnerside is six miles west of Reeth on the B6270 road towards Kirkby Stephen.  Dales & District bus service 30 from Richmond runs several times daily (except Sundays); very limited summer Sundays Dalesbus 830 also calls (? 0871 200 2233, www.dalesbus.org).

Description

[1] Take the narrow way-marked track to the east side of the bridge (SD952982) with Gunnerside Beck on your left.  Walk upstream, skirting right around the higher house’s boundary before rejoining the track and rising gradually above the Beck.  Passing through scrubby woodland, the first old working is soon reached – a grassy embankment on your right.  A slim handgate takes the path onto a ledged way, through a second gate and up thicker woodland (care needed as path may be muddy in places).  Beyond a sleeper bridge, through a squeeze stile and a gate, the path breaks free of woodland into a flat valley bottom, commencing an easy amble into the developing gorge of Gunnerside Gill.  The first substantial ruins, Sir Francis Level, are soon reached. 

[2] Cross a wooden stile and follow path up to a dry stone wall then turn left with the wall on your right.  Over a stile, leave the valley floor and start a gradual climb across the valleyside – the is route soon marked by a sinuous old wall on your left.  On the opposite flank is the wooded Botcher Gill – a series of slender waterfalls leaping down from the heights of Black Hill.  The sheer gorge sides are fanned with the detritus of the pleasingly named Dolly Lead Level, where higher buildings mark the sites of adits (mine shafts) and crushing floors.  Crossing a gushing side beck, you arrive at the substantial site of the Bunton complex.

The wheelpit on the very edge of the gorge housed a waterwheel that helped drain the underground workings, which were dug around 1800.  The line of semi-circular bunkers once held raw ore, prior to crushing in the dressing floor complex here.  ‘Dressed’ ore was then moved through the nearby slim tunnel beneath the moors to the formidable Old Gang smelters, more than a mile away.

[3] Walk 150m to a four-way fingerpost and turn right for Surrender Bridge, commencing a steep climb up a stony hush.  This levels out into a startling area of spoil, tips and old shafts, more like the lunar surface than the Yorkshire Dales.  Keep ahead to join a moorland track.  Bear right and trace this through the eerie landscape, passing a fenced off mine shaft on the right, a rusting stone crusher on the left, then a series of Grouse Butts.  Remain on the track for nearly a mile as it starts to fall towards Old Gang Beck valley.

[4] At a small cairn turn right and head up along a firm gravel track.  Within 200m you’ll walk through an area of old walled sheep pens, beside a ruined building: Moor House.  Past here, the track rolls easily across heather-clad grouse moors.  At a fork, keep right go through a concrete watersplash and follow the track, passing beside a long series of grouse butts, to where Swaledale comes into view ahead.

[5] Around 150m past the final butt, the track bends sharply right.  Fork left here onto the grassier track, which shortly curls right to reveal a stone barn and tarred lane in the near distance.  Take a right fork and head for the barn down another grassy track.  Near the barn, turn left through a gate in a wall to join the tarred lane and follow it down to Gunnerside, which nestles amid Swaledale’s stunning hay meadows. 

POI information

A walk of immense contrasts in higher Swaledale, starting through bird-rich valley woodland before advancing up a precipitous gill rich in lead-mining archaeology, including a series of scars known as ‘hushes’.  As well as working underground using compressed air drills, Victorian miners also employed water to wash away the overlying rock and expose the veins of galena (lead ore).  By damming higher streams they created temporary reservoirs.  When they released these waters, the deluge eroded the hillside and apparently sounded like a tumultuous ‘hush’.  A steep climb brings you to an eerie landscape of lead field remains, before a shooters’ track meanders across heather moors, offering magnificent views across a wide sweep of the northern Dales.

 

Notes

Although the walk may be described as leisurely overall, it does involve a steep climb up the stony terrain of Bunton Hush.  There is also a steep decent on the tarred lane back into Gunneside at the end of the walk.

Acknowledgements

Route devised by Neil Coates for Walk Magazine.

  • Footpath and fields
    Footpath and fields
    By - Neil Coates
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