[1] Despite its granite architecture, Castlebay is the most serene of all the ports on the Outer Hebrides, with hikers’ eyes drawn to the squat, eponymous castle of Kisimul that rises from the middle of the harbour. This is one of those views that makes you momentarily wonder if you’ve developed double vision: a blur of peaks and bays rise gently to the southwest, while the hump of Maol Domhnaich stands broodingly to the southeast.
There’s no footpath west out of the town, so follow the A888 from the centre (NL665985), passing the swimming pool, school and signs for the hospital.
[2] Turn left at the signpost for Vatersay (NF655988), following the road as it climbs and bends steeply uphill. At the pass there is a war memorial – the number of men lost to two world wars from such a tiny community is extraordinary – along with views of a now distant and miniature Castlebay. The path sweeps downhill, passing a sheep corral and a burial cairn. The sharp-eyed may pick out the slight remains of an Iron Age house and an 18th-century farmstead. Passing lobster pots and other fishing paraphernalia, the road reaches the causeway.
[3] Cross the causeway, moving as you do so from Barra to the island of Vatersay. By the jetty, look out for a sign saying ‘dead end’. You can follow this route, but it means what it says: at the end of the path you encounter an enclosed field and you have a five-minute trudge uphill to pick up the road again, although you don’t have to double-back. The path drops down to a small harbour, where you have a good chance of seeing grey seals, as well as black-headed gulls.
[4] The steady, linear climb up the flank of Heiseabhal Beag is straightforward if lengthy. At the top of the pass and a meeting of paths (NF645962), bear right and begin your descent. The view is tremendous: in sun, the double beach of Vatersay shines like a brochure for the Caribbean. To the east are the islands of Canna, Rum, Eigg and Muck. As you descend to the isthmus, you pass the fuselage of the Catalina – an aircraft that crashed in 1944, killing three of the nine on board.
[5] Walk along the paved lane through the isthmus. Bear right past the tiny post office. Here, turn left through a gate and follow the field track due south with the burial ground over to the left Behind a barn, go through another gate and drop down to Bagh a Deas – the beach is picture-postcard perfect.
[6] To reach the southernmost point of Vatersay, follow the goats’ track up to the right and make your way above a couple of gullies and down to the granite outcrops of Heillanish (NL633934) that put a full stop on the inhabited Hebrides. Here, Vatersay eyeballs the island of Sandray that rises up across the sound. This is a dreamy view of a ring of islands strung out in a gentle arc, tapering to an unbroken ocean.