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Bonsall and Winster

Difficulty Moderate

Walking time 3 hours 45 minutes

Length 12.2km / 7.6mi

Route developer: Philip Cheesewright

Route checker: Christine Whittaker

Start location Bonsall drinking fountain. Derbyshire. DE4 2AD
Route Summary Winster and Bonsall are two of the most attractive villages in the White Peak. This walk takes you on the Limestone Way around Bonsall Moor, with the remains of old lead mines, and gives spectacular views in all directions.
*move mouse over graph to see points on route
Getting there

By car: To reach Bonsall village by car take the A6 to Cromford traffic lights. Turn up the A5012 for Newhaven then after 150m turn right for Newhaven and the Via Gellia. After 1.3km, just after the old mill, turn right for Bonsall and Slaley. After 600m turn left at the stone drinking fountain into The Dale and park on the right clear of the 'No Parking' sign.

By public transport: To get to Bonsall is not easy. Go to Matlock by train (hourly from Derby) or take the Trent Barton 6.1 bus from Derby to Bakewell (hourly on weekdays and two hourly on Sundays). Then change to the M2 to Bonsall which runs irregularly on weekdays and Saturdays, last return 17:35.

To get to the alternative start point of Matlock Bath take the train or 6.1 bus as above. But please note that this adds 3.5 km to the route and 255 metres of climb!

Bus timetables for Bonall, Winster and Matlcock are available at http://www.derbysbus.info/times/

Train timetables for Matlock can be found at http://www.eastmidlandstrains.co.uk/train-times/

Description

[1]  Go up The Dale. There are public toilets on the left just by the drinking fountain. The fountain cafe is available for refreshments and meals. After a while there is a chapel on the left (almost at the end of the Dale, after the houses).

[2]  Just past the chapel, at the junction with Horsedale, turn left up a steep waymarked path (which goes around the back of the house) hidden by a tall hedge. This is the Limestone Way. Go through a squeeze stile then ahead across a meadow. Cross an old field boundary 5m right of a large stone then keep on the same bearing through a gap in a hedge then bear right across another old field boundary to a gap in a wall. Bear left to a waymarked gap (there is a little barn on the right) in a fence then to a squeeze stile onto a narrow walled track. Turn right then at the top of the lane go straight ahead through a wicket gate then through a squeeze stile by a barn. You will start to see the first shafts and waste tips from old lead mines. Some deep shafts on your right are covered by rough concrete covers. Please stay clear of these. Cross two more walls then where the field widens bear left between waste heaps to the left hand corner of the field where there is a wicket gate.

[3]  Keep ahead between waste tips to a wicket gate with a four-way fingerpost. Keep ahead on Limestone Way across very rough ground until you meet some waste tips by a deep hole made by mining. Veer right to a pair of wicket gates then go diagonally left across a broken wall and on to a wicket gate 40m right of a derelict barn. Then bear left to another gate on the road. Cross the road and go over a stile and keep straight on to a farm. Skirt to the right of the fence then drop down to a squeeze stile in the corner. Follow the left hand wall 40m to a waymarked gate.

[4]  Ignore this gate, instead turn right and walk directly uphill, leaving the Limestone Way. You now go straight ahead for nearly 3km. At the top of the field go through a waymarked gap in the wall 50m to the right of a derelict barn, then another, then to a stile which you can see on the skyline. Far off your left is the Grange Mill quarry. Go to the left hand corner of the field and through a squeeze stile onto a lane then just to your left through a stile and then (keeping right)  through 2 wicket gates to the disused but romantic White House farm. Bear right using stile or field gate through a yard and track to a field gate and turn right onto a rough track. There is a fine view to the north here towards Youlgreave and Bakewell. Where the track turns right, bear left through a waymarked squeeze stile and go straight on following the right hand wall.

[5]  You meet some more mine spoil heaps on the right. Ignore a gateway right, instead keeping on over a tall wooden stile then through a very tight squeeze stile. 10m before a field gate go right across a stile then sharp left across a broken wall to a stile and dew pond. Skirt to the right of the pond and follow the wall line downhill through two stiles. Then go up to the far left corner of the next field then directly uphill to reach the road at a stile. Go left 100m to a fingerpost and turn right uphill. At the top go through the gap in the wall. There is a stunning view north and east.

[6]  Go diagonally left to a stile in the fence, which is close to one of the power poles. Keep on the same course across two stiles to reach a rutted lane. This is the Limestone Way again, but you're not following it yet.  Cross the lane and descend a meadow past the artistically weathered rocks of Wyns Tor (which reputedly gave Winster its name). Ignore the obvious wicket gate into a garden. Instead skirt the wall to the left and reach the road via a squeeze stile closed by a wooden board. Go left along East Bank to the junction with West Bank.

Just ahead of you here, should you wish to call in, is the Miners Standard pub, which has photos of an underground pump built by the Coalbrookdale company and the old lead miners.

[7]  Go sharp right down West Bank – caution – no pavement. You now enter Winster (A). For a fuller description of the village see the additional POI information. At the bottom turn right into Main Street then at the old  Market Hall turn right up East Bank.

Here is the Bowling Green pub and, next left up an alley, the public toilets

Keep on, forking left to where the road turns sharp right. Go left into a small yard (signed to Bonsall) then up the narrow alley on the right by Headlands Cottage. Go up between houses and gardens to a small meadow then diagonally right up to the trees. There are two indistinct paths here. The right hand one is slightly easier to follow. Cross a corner of a broken wall then turn left up a clear double path made by cattle to another broken wall in a scrubby area, then through a gated squeeze stile into a large field. In the middle of the field is an isolated squeeze stile which may be difficult to see in summer and a finger post indicating that you have rejoined the Limestone Way. 

There is a good view to the left here over Wensley Dale (no, not that one!), Darley Dale and eventually Chatsworth House in the distance.

[8]  Keep on ahead past the pine trees at Luntor Rocks.  Go up to the right to a gated squeeze stile then shortly go right through the wall at another gated squeeze then follow the left hand wall. It's actually easier to go through the gap by the first stile and turn left. Go through three wall gaps, the third with a waymark, then go diagonally right to a squeeze stile then diagonally left to another. You emerge in a long thin field. Keep diagonally right on the same bearing to a gap in the wall then across a similar field to a gated squeeze stile. Now go directly forward to a wicket gate at the left hand end of the hedge opposite. Go diagonally right to the far corner of a broad field and onto Bonsall Lane. Go left 50m to a fingerpost on the right, marked ' Limestone Way – 1¼ miles to Bonsall ' - take that path.

[9]  Go to a wall gap in the top left hand corner of the field, then bear left to a squeeze stile in a broken wall. Keep on the same bearing past a waymark straight across to a gateway, then to a wall gap between two trees. In the far left corner of the field is a gated squeeze stile by a Limestone Way post. Go left onto a track then immediately right on another then after 20m turn left at a fingerpost and go diagonally right. Go through a squeeze stile and keep on the same bearing along the right hand wall. Ahead of you on the horizon is Black Rock with its Telecomms. mastGo through a squeeze stile then ahead 10m to another by a field gate. Go diagonally left through a stile and wicket gate then go straight down following the wall to a stile on a rough, muddy track. Turn left. Ignore the first path to the right after 50m.

To extend the walk over Masson Hill, or return to Matlock Bath, continue as described in the alternative description below the main walk.

[10] To return directly to Bonsall, take the second right path which is within a section lined with hawthorne (after 300m), signed 'Limestone Way'. Go straight ahead through a tight squeeze stile then two others and continue to wall gap then follow the right hand wall to a barn. Just past the barn go right through a tight squeeze stile then, of the two paths diverging left, take the one to the right to a stile at the mid-point of the opposite wall (towards a house). Stay on the same bearing through another stile then to the far right corner of the next field where a field gate brings you to the junction of Abel Lane and Moor Lane. 

[11]  Go ahead along Moor Lane to its junction with Uppertown Lane by the bus stop. Turn left then immediately right into Bell Lane. At the end of the lane keep on through four squeeze stiles to reach a tarred path between walls. At a small grassed area bear right down a continuation of the path, with 61 steps down to Bonsall village by the Kings Head pub and the Cross (B). Turn right down Yeoman Street to return to the drinking fountain. 

Alternative longer route over Masson Hill. 

Follow the track as far as the Bonsall to Winster road. Cross over to an overgrown path between trees, which emerges on the Winster to Matlock road. Continue left along the road for 1km - caution – no pavement - to the point where it dips to give a good view of Matlock. Here you go right up a track, then ignore a path to the right. Where the lane bends sharp right, cross the stile next to a field gate. Follow some wheel tracks for about 70m then bear right over a slight hump to the hedge ahead of you. Turn left along the hedge line, towards a wood on the skyline, ignoring a footpath through a kissing gate on your right. To your left is an unusual view down onto Riber Castle.

At the top right corner of the field, well hidden behind a small waste tip, there is a squeeze stile into the wood. Bear left to a waymark at a path junction in the middle of the wood. Ignore the squeeze stile to your right, instead keeping on to the far right corner of the wood where there is another squeeze stile by which you leave the wood. Follow the right hand wall through a patch of scrub to a wicket gate onto a rough track. Ignore the gateways to right and left, instead cross over onto a grassed area. There is a hint of a path along the right hand hedge line, but instead stay on the same level. Here there are good views of Cromford and, on clear days, Ratcliffe power station 35 km to the south-east. Follow round to the right through gorse and thorn bushes. The path dips then turns sharp left at a waymark down onto a rutted track. Go right through two field gates to the farm, following the waymark rightwards into the yard. Keep on down the drive to a lane marked by a fingerpost.  

To return to Matlock Bath, turn left and retrace your steps. To return to Bonsall, turn right and go down Ember Lane to the church, then go right  down Church Lane to view the Cross, then left to the drinking fountain. 

 

Alternative start from Matlock. 

If you wish to start at Matlock Bath then leave the railway station and cross the Derwent bridge to the main road. Cross over - there is a pedestrian crossing on the left that you may wish to use - and go up Holme Road. After 100m turn left, following the sign to ‘The Heights of Abraham’. As you climb you get a good view of the Derwent Valley. The road dips to ‘The Round House’ which is actually a Grade II listed hexagonal lodge building. Keep on to the left up Upperwood Road. Ignore a footpath to the right (to Matlock) to reach West Lodge, a ticket office for the Heights of Abraham.  

After 90m take the path to the right marked by a fingerpost. The path is steep, and includes 54 steps. Continue past a broken iron lamppost up a steep winding woodland path. In spring the ground is carpeted by Anemone Blanda, and is quite a sight. Turn left where this meets another path, ignoring minor paths to the right into the wood. The path surface becomes rough concrete, then you emerge through a squeeze stile into a grassed area marked by a four-way path signpost. To your left is the Telecomms mast on Black Rock. Further right is the ridge of Middleton Moor.

Go right along a muddy farm track through a field gate marked by a fingerpost. Past a barn the track (now Ember Lane) dips downhill to reach Bonsall church. Enter the churchyard, either by the gate on your left or the lychgate,  then at the back of the church go down steps to reach the drinking fountain and the start point [1].

POI information

(A) Winster

Winster village has no less than 69 listed buildings! For full details see the English Heritage website.

As you enter the village down West Bank  the first buildings on the left are the Harness Room and Squire White’s Cottage. After that Squire White’s with the quotation ”Ars longa, vita brevis. Experimentum Pericolosum sed Experientia Docet” (Art endures, life is short. To experiment is dangerous but experience teaches). This is partly taken from the Greek physician Hippocrates (he of the Hippocratic oath). George White married Sarah Mower of Woodseates and died in June 1795 leaving four sons, two of which were educated at the Manchester School (now Manchester Grammar).

Opposite is the Wesleyan Chapel. Round the bend is the Burton Institute. 10m before the junction with Main Street there is a path marked 'Elton', leading to St John the Baptist Church, which has a Burne Jones window and another more recent one. At the junction itself is the 17th century Dower House, now a hotel.

Go right along Main Street, which is unspoiled and elegant. Most houses date from the 18th century heyday of the local lead mining industry.The jewel in the crown is Winster Hall on the left. This was built by Francis Moore in 1628, but was rebuilt in 1720. The house was later the home of Llewellyn Jewitt, the distinguished late 19th century Derbyshire antiquarian and engraver - who incidentally organised the piping of water three miles to the village. In the 1970s the Hall was a public house.

A little further on are the Winster Village Shop and the Market House, which is an old market hall of around 1700, which was the first building in Derbyshire to have been bought by the National Trust in 1906. It contains a model of the village and information panels. Entry is free. Apparently the Market House was reduced to its stone base before it was preserved. 

Further on along Wensley Road there are more pleasant buildings. Return to the Market House and go up East Bank. On the left is the Old Bowling Green Pub, dating back to 1472. This is not open on Mondays and Tuesdays. Check before visiting. Keep on uphill. On your right is another Wesleyan chapel.

For more interesting facts see http://www.derbyshireheritage.co.uk/Menu/Townsandvillages/Winster.php

(B) Bonsall

Bonsall applied for a market charter some three hundred years ago, but was rejected. Nevertheless, at the centre of the village there is a market cross that may date from the Middle Ages. The ball on top was added in 1678.  By the cross is an interesting map giving the history of the village and a small low relief sculpture of 'T'owd Man'.

The Manor House (1 High Street) was built in about 1670 and the Kings Head public house was established in 1677.

The church of Saint James the Apostle dates from the 13th century. The arcade of the north aisle is later and so is the perpendicular gothic tower. The outer walls of the church were rebuilt in 1861–62 under the direction of the gothic revival architect Ewan Christian.

As well as lead mining, the village was influenced by the textile industry of the Derwent valley. A few 18th and 19th century frame-knitting workshop buildings survive.

For more detail see http://www.peakdistrictvillages.co.uk/bonsall-c31.html.

Notes No details available.
Acknowledgements No details available.
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