Richmond - Town and Country

The main 'Town and Country' route heads through the historic Richmond Green area to the Thames, where there is an option to visit  Richmond Lock.  It continues along the riverside, under Richmond Bridge to Petersham Meadow, before heading inland and climbing up through Richmond Park, to King Henry's Mount viewpoint, returning along Richmond Hill with its famous protected views and then down through the Terrace Gardens to the riverside.  

The shorter 'Town and Riverside' walk follows the main route through the town and along the River but leaves the riverside earlier, climbing up through the attractive Terrace Gardens to to the Richmond Hill viewpoints, with the option of returning either by the riverside or down Richmond Hill. 

[1] Leave Richmond Station, at the main Kew Road exit. Turn left and use the zebra crossing to cross towards Oriel House.  Turn right on the far side and almost immediately turn left into Old Station Passage, signposted 'Capital Ring'. At the end, turn left and go across the railway. Go past Richmond Theatre (A), on your left, with Little Green on your right. Cross Duke Street and almost immediately, at road narrows, turn right and cross the road to the corner of the much larger Richmond Green (B). 

[2] Fork left and take the left hand path, along the edge of  Richmond Green. At the end, turn right along the pavement. (Note on the opposite side, house number 44 ½  and then Tudor Place,  Maid of Honours Row (C) and Old Palace).  At road narrows, cross to the left hand side and very soon turn left through Richmond Palace Gateway (D). Go clockwise round the green to go past the front of the old Wardrobe buildings and Trumpeters House and then leave along the path between white bollards in the far right corner. Turn left into the road (Old Palace Lane) and go past the White Swan Pub. 

[3] At River Thames, by the White Swan sign and Asgill House (E), turn left to go past Asgill House.  

If you turn right here you can extend the walk by 0.6 miles and visit Richmond Lock. Go under the railway and road. (The hexagonal building, hidden on the right, between the bridges, is a shaft for a water supply tunnel - there is a matching building on the opposite side of river.)  Continue along the path, actually a raised causeway, with the Old Deer Park (F) on the right. At Richmond Lock (G), to avoid steps, you can retrace your steps back to Asgill House, otherwise go across the bridge and turn left on the far bank to head  alongside the river (Raneleigh Drive). At the road bridge (Twickenham Road Bridge), go up the steps, cross the river and then go down the steps back to riverside.  Retrace your steps under the road and rail bridges, back to Asgill House.

[4] From Asgill House, continue straight on along the riverside, past the Old Deer Park Information Board and the heritage copper beech, go along Cholmondley Walk (H) and onto a cobbled road.  At the White Cross Pub, keep to the riverside, passing the Slug and Lettuce pub and onto  Richmond Riverside (I).  Walk under Richmond Bridge (J) and continue on for some time along the river passing a the tallest plane tree in London on the way.  Shortly after the Canoe Club and just after the path bends, look out for a grotto and tunnel under the road, leading into Terrace Gardens (cafe). 

[5] To take the shorter "Town and Riverside" walk, head left down the steps to the Terrace Gardens (K).  Go through the tunnel under the road and then up steps into the gardens at the Grotto Gate. (K1).  (To avoid steps, go back a few yards and cross the busy Petersham Road into park). Turn left and then right to go past the Glasshouse. Ahead is the cafe and to its right the River God statue. (K2). As you get near the cafe, turn left keeping the grass on your right. Keep left and then follow the path round to the right towards a wooden Summer House (K3). At the Summer House turn left and almost immediately, keep right and go past the Spring Well. (K4).  Shortly after turn right, continuing uphill. Continue straight on at a Y-junction, until you reach the lower terrace. Go past the Fishmarker Stone (K5) until you reach the Aphrodite Statue (Bulbous Betty) terrace. (L).

At this point, with the climbing largely complete, you may like to take a seat and admire the view before going up steps that will take you to road. (Step Free route - see accessibily notes).

Go up the steps and behind the statue, up more steps on the left and along a winding path that takes you to the top terrace. Turn right along the Upper Terrace (Information Board) and shortly opposite Friars Stile Road, turn left and go up a few steps to the road (Richmond Hill). Turn right along road and shortly turn right and along terrace for the protected Richmond Hill viewpoint. (M) (Information Board and 1902 Act commemorative plaque). For the return, retrace your steps to Friars Stile Road and then continue at paragraph  [11 ] where you will probably wish to return directly down Richmond Hill, unless you wish to take a break at the Garden's cafe. 

[6] For Richmond Park, continue straight along the river and then follow the path as it turns away from the river through Buccleugh Gardens and past toilets.  Go ahead through a kissing gate across Petersham Meadows.  (N) Continue straight on across the meadows and through a second kissing gate.  

For a short diversion to the centre of Petersham Village with its attractive houses, when you meet the gravel road, turn right towards Petersham Nurseries (cafe) and just by its entrance take a narrow footpath between brick walls which will eventually bring you out on a road (River Lane) where you turn left. At the main Petersham Road, turn left and continue along the narrow pavement past Petersham House,  St Peter's Church (O) and shortly thereafter the Dysart Arms, where you rejoin main route at [7].

Otherwise continue straight on to go past St Peter's Church (O) and come out on the main Petersham Road.  Turn left and continue to the Dysart Arms.

[7]  At the Dysart Arms, use the pedestrian lights to cross towards Richmond Park. Go through Petersham Gate into Richmond Park (P) and go straight on gradually uphill, along the main gravel path. (Cycle Path - beware bikes). Go past a children’s playground and toilets. At the brow of the hill, by a seat and just before the brick wall on the right ends, branch left uphill, along a well use dirt path. Follow the path round left and then right as it climbs up to go parallel to a wire fence. Continue straight on at the junction with Capital Ring path, following the fence and then go up some 36 rough path steps . Just after the steps, go through a gate on the left and follow the path ahead to the white house, Pembroke Lodge (Q) (cafe).   (No dogs in Pembroke Lodge Gardens - see notes for alternative). 

Through the main Lodge gates on the right by the car park are a refreshment kiosk, toilets and the Visitor Centre (open weekends). 

Here, with the climbing over, you may wish to take a well deserved break, before commencing the return journey.   Or you may wish to take a break at seats by viewpoints, in gardens, in a few minutes time 

[8]  Follow path past the front of the Lodge. Turn right at a road, signposted King Henry’s Mound and then shortly fork left on a tarmac path keeping the lawn to the right. Go between seats and the Rose Garden and shortly, go left, to the first of a series of viewpoints. Turn right at the main path and, at the next junction, fork right alongside a hedge and, by a gate, turn left uphill to King Henry’s Mound (R) viewpoint (information boards ) and proceed to the upper level by the telescope. (Note the iron 'window' in the hedge behind with a legally protected vista of St Pauls, 10 miles away.)

[9] Leave the Mound, keeping views to the left and go down a slope. Turn right at a Y junction and go through the arches of the John Beer Laburnum Walk.  (Just before gate note poem to James Thomson). Go through a kissing gate into main park and fork left along metal fence. Continue along the path until you reach a roundabout and Richmond Gate. (Toilets on left). Cross to the other side of the road before the gates (Beware of traffic leaving and entering park).and leave the park coming out opposite the Royal Star and Garter Home, (S).  Keep right and continue to a roundabout.

[10] At roundabout, use the zebra crossings to cross to the R.S.P.C.A Fountain and the Royal Star and Garter Home. On the far side, turn right and go down Richmond Hill. Cross Nightingale Lane and continue along the terrace with magnificent views to the left and information boards at the main viewpoint. (M). After the viewpoints, continue along the pavement and go down steps into Terrace Gardens (K).

[11] For the direct route back to the station which avoids steps, stay on the pavement and continue down Richmond Hill, which becomes Hill Rise and when the road narrows, cross to right hand side. Continue straight on at the roundabout into busy Hill Street and shortly after use the pedestrian crossing to cross to the left hand side. Go past the Old Town Hall until you reach Water Lane and rejoin the main route at [13].

[12] For the riverside route, go along the upper terrace, down steps on the left and follow the path to the Aphrodite Statue (Bulbous Betty) (L).  Go to the front, down a few steps and turn right along the lower terrace.  Look for the Fishmarker Stone (K5) on your left and follow the tarmac path downhill (not the steps) as it leaves rockery.  Keep left at all junctions until you arrive at the Spring Well (K4) on the left and shortly after the Summer House (K3).  At the front of the Summer House turn right and follow the path downhill, round the edge of the lawn.  As you approach the cafe, note the River God statue (K2) ahead but go right, continuing downhill past the Glasshouse.  At the exit gates turn left. (Step-free route - go directly across road to riverside). Shortly after turn right to go down steps and under the road through the flint lined Grotto Gate (K1) tunnel.  At the riverside, turn right and retrace your outward route, back under Richmond Bridge.  After Richmond Riverside Terraces, turn right, by the Slug and Lettuce Pub, into Water Lane. At George Street turn left.

[13] Continue straight on towards the House of Frazer and go across the pedestrian crossing. Turn left along King Street with the House of Fraser on your right. Turn right into Paved Court to emerge at Richmond Green. Continue straight on with the Green on your left, past the Cricketers Pub. Cross Duke Street and continue past the Theatre. Immediately after the railway, turn right into Old Station Passage by the Capital Ring sign.  At the main road use the zebra crossing, on the right, to cross back to the station.

Accessibility:

Whilst the Town route is on tarmaced paths, part of the Country route through Richmond Park is on a well trod 'country path' with rough steps and some unevenness, which may be muddy or slippery after rain.

The Richmond Lock option includes 2 flights of steps at each of the bridges - in total some 80 steps up and 80 steps down, but these can be avoided by keeping to the east bank in both directions.  

The Terrace Gardens section is largely step free but ascent from the lower terrace (Bulbous Betty Statue) to the highest terrace and the Richmond Hill viewpoints, involves some 22 steps spread over 4 sections.. The lower terrace has nice views and plenty of seats and the riverside return route from there provides a step-free route back so a slightly shorter step-free 'Town and River' route is possible.

Refreshments:

There are cafes at the mid-points of both the short and longer walks and if you feel in need of refreshment at the end of the walk, then there are pubs, cafes and restaurants at Richmond Green.

Dogs -  Pembroke Lodge Gardens.

Unfortunately dogs are not allowed in the gardens, so keeping the fence on your left, follow if round to the car park and continue straight on past toilets and alongside fence.  Go past a vehicle entrance.  You then arrive at a pedestrian entrance to gardens which leads directly to King Henrys Mount (100 metres).  Continue alongside the fence until you reach  a viewpoint, with S-shaped 'Poets' seat and garden exit.  Here you rejoin main route.

Points of Interest:

Additional Information -  Richmond Libraries', Local Study Collection has detailed local history notes about many of the  buildings we pass on this walk.  The intitals LHN below indicate when such additional information is available.  The notes can be downloaded using this link.

A Richmond Theatre (1899 Grade II* Listed) - Opened as the Richmond Theatre and Opera House, it is one of the finest surviving examples of the work of theatre architect Frank Matcham. Refurbished in 1991, it showcases West End and touring productions from across the UK, and is open 49 weeks of the year. 

B Richmond Green has been an important open space since the Middle Ages when it hosted jousting competitions. The Green has been a venue for cricket for many centuries, the earliest reference being in a letter of 1666. There are fine buildings all around the green many of which are listed properties dating back many centuries. Originally these were for people serving or visiting Richmond Palace (see D ) but further development occurred with the coming of the railway, when Victorian villas were built for commuters. It is now one of the most sought-after 'addresses' in the London area. (LHN).

C Maid of Honours Row  (1724-6, Grade 1 Listed)  - A fine Georgian terrace built on the instructions of  the Prince of Wales, later George II] to serve as lodgings for the maids of honour attending the Princess of Wales.  (LHN)

D Richmond Palace   Henry VII built Richmond Palace on the site of the former Palace of Shene after a fire in 1497 and it was for a while the showplace of the kingdom.  However  Hampton Court palace built by Cardinal Wolsey, was to overshadow Richmond and Henry VIII acquired Hampton Court on Wolsey's Death.  Richmond then became a home for his discarded queens.   Elizabeth, in her reign, was particularly fond of Richmond, as a winter home and Shakespeare's company performed here.  Under Charles I, Richmond Palace was once again used as a home for the royal children. After Charles I’s execution, Richmond Palace was sold by the Commonwealth Parliament and the palace broken up.  Over the next ten years it was largely demolished.  In the 18th century new houses replaced many of the crumbling brick buildings  - ‘Trumpeters’ House’ dates from 1702 and was  followed by ‘Old Court House’ and ‘Wentworth  House’ in 1705-7. The Wardrobe building had been joined up to the Gate House in 1688-9 and its garden front was rebuilt about 1710.  (LHN)

E Asgill House (c 1757) is an 18th century riverside Palladian villa, on the former site of the Palace brewhouse. It was built as a summer and weekend country villa, by Robert Taylor,  for Sir Charles Asgill, a successful banker and Lord Mayor of London and is among the last villas of importance to be erected on banks of the Thames. It was returned to its original appearance in a restoration of 1969–70. (LHN)

F Old Deer Park.  A hunting park of 370 acres was established here by King James in 1603. The present name 'Old Deer Park' was adopted after 1637, following the establishment by King Charles I of the much larger Richmond Park on the other side of the town.  George III built an observatory in the park from which he followed theTransit of Venus  in 1769.  He had it lined up with three obelisks along his personal Meridian before the advent of the Greenwich Meridian. The observatory set the official time for London throughout the 1770’s. In the 19th century the land changed from private royal estate to public amenity.   A substantial area was leased for Cricket, Rugby and Golf and 87 acres was allocated as a public recreation ground. The northern part became Kew Gardens.  

G Richmond Lock  (1894, Grade II Listed) is a half-tide lock, barrage and footbridge built to maintain water levels in the tidal part of the river below Teddington Lock. For about two hours each side of high tide, the sluice gates of the barrage are raised so that river traffic can pass through. For the rest of the tidal cycle the sluice gates are closed to traffic which must use the lock. 

H Cholmondley Walk.  Built on land reclaimed from the river it dates from the 18th century and was one of the first pedestrian walkways in the UK - originaly having two pathways, one for 'polite' society and a more muddy path on the the water's edge for everyone else.  It was called Cholmondeley Walk after the Earl of Cholmondeley who lived in a house on the site now occupied by Maids of Honour Row.  (LHN)

I Richmond Riverside.(1984-7) Designed by Quinlan Terry, the Richmond Riverside Development incorporates two listed buildings with a large river-facing facade displaying a rich palette of 18th-century architecture.   This large development comprises of offices, flats, shops, two restaurants, community facilities, two underground car parks and riverside gardens.  It retains many historic boat sheds.

J Richmond Bridge (1777 Grade 1 listed).  It is the oldest surviving bridge in London. Widened during 1937, and apart from being less "hump-backed", its original appearance was preserved. (LHN).

K Terrace Gardens (and Buccleuch Gardens) are made up of the grounds of three 18th and 19th century estates. The grounds of Buccleuch House and Landsdowne House became a public park in 1887 and the Cardigan House grounds was added in the 1920s. None of these houses is still standing but the 19th century layout of their gardens is still very much in evidence. They were refurbished at a cost of  £1 million pounds between 2007 and 2009.

K1 Grotto Gate:  Buccleuch Gardens and the Terrace Gardens are connected by a flint-lined, barrel-vaulted tunnel under Petersham Road (probably 18th century, remodelled in the 19th, listed Grade II), now known as Grotto Gate.

K2 River God statue (1784). It is made of Coade stone, an artificial stone ceramic material which could be moulded into complex shapes. It was first created by Mrs Eleanor Coade  and sold commercially from 1769 to 1833.  It has a high resistance to weathering.  

K3  Summer House   Located on the site of previous rustic, thatched garden shelters, it looks out over internal vistas of the park, but is a modern construction dating from 2007. The rock garden dates from 1928.  

K4 Spring Well.    Part of the grounds of Cardigan House, this 19th century brick-built icehouse is cut into the hillside and redesigned in the later 19th century as an ornamental garden feature, decorated with seashells and what appears to be slag. This structure may predate Cardigan House and date from the period of Richmond Wells (1696-1763) a 17th century venue for cards and musical entertainment. The concrete barrels are believed to have been moulded from barrels carried by the famous tea clipper, Cutty Sark. 

K5 Fishmarker Stone   A marker stone originally located on the bank of the Thames, indicating the distance to Westminster Bridge (4 3/4 miles) and which acted as a fare stage for Thames Waterman.

L Aphrodite Statue (Bulbous Betty).  The previous cast iron fountain was removed for salvage in World War II and this Portland Stone version by Allan Howe dates from 1952.  It was considered by many as in bad taste and was immediately given the nickname Bulbous Betty.

M Richmond Hill Viewpoint: So celebrated is this view that an act of parliament was passed in 1904 to protect it from development - it’s the only protected view in England. The legislation was the first-ever piece of environmental planning, and a plaque on the hill commemorates the passing of the act.

N Petersham Meadows  The name Petersham is derived from the Saxon name Piterichesham which means a home or enclosure of Patrick.  Petersham Meadows were a part of the estate attached to Ham House from the early 17th Century until the latter years of the 19th Century. There have been cows grazing here from, at least, that time and they have been featured in many famous paintings and photographs. 

O St Peter's Church.  It is probable that there has been a church on this site since Saxon times. The current church dates from 1266 but only part of the chancel is left. In 1505 the body of the church was rebuilt and there were later additions in the 17th and 19th century. (LHN)

P Richmond Park.  The Park has changed little over the centuries and although it is surrounded by human habitation, the varied landscape of hills, woodland gardens and grasslands set among ancient trees abounds in wild life.  Richmond Park has been designated as a site of special scientific interest and a National Nature Reserve. The royal connections to this park probably go back further than any of the others, beginning with Edward (1272-1307), when the area was known as the Manor of Sheen. The name was changed to Richmond during Henry VII's reign. In 1637 Charles I built an 8 mile brick wall round the park to stop his 2000 deer escaping.  Deer are still a feature of the park today.

Q Pembroke Lodge.  This Georgian Mansion began life as a one room cottage occupied by a molecatcher whose sole duty was to reduce the peril presented to huntsmen by moles.  It was substantially enlarged during the 18th century. Queen Victoria granted it to her prime minister, Lord John Russell, in 1847 and his grandson, the philosospher Bertrand Russell, lived there between 1876 and 1890. Now in private hands and restored to its former architectural glory, Pembroke Lodge is open to the public for refreshments, weddings and conferences.

R King Henry's Mound, the highest point within the park, is believed to be a Bronze Age burial site and legend has it that Henry Vlll watched hunting here. From the Mound there is a legally protected view, of St Paul's Cathedral, over 10 miles (16 km) to the east.  This view is protected by a 'dome and a half' width of sky on either side. To the west is a panorama of the Thames Valley.

S Royal Star & Garter Home (Grade II Listed, 1919-24). Occupies the site of the former Star and Garter Hotel which was sold off after it fell into disrepair. The home was established by Queen Mary and the British Red Cross in 1916 to provide care for disabled sailors and soldiers. The home is due to close in 2013 when it moves to new premises at Surbiton.