The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB takes in most of the county’s coastline and its immediate hinterland. It’s a richly varied landscape comprising shingle beaches, crumbling cliffs, marshes, estuaries, heathland, forests and farmland. Three waymarked long-distance routes – the Suffolk Coast Path, Sandlings Walk and Stour and Orwell Walk – run through the area, providing some excellent walking. The Sandlings Walk follows a route mostly inland from – and parallel to – the Suffolk Coast Path. This circuit, which starts from the charming village of Westleton, makes use of both routes. The outward leg takes you across attractive heathland to the coast at Dunwich – a small village today, but once one of the largest ports in England. From there you head southwards across Dunwich Heath to the RSPB’s renowned Minsmere Nature Reserve and then back inland to Westleton.
1. START Facing the village green with your back to the duck pond (TM441692), head right to the main road. Cross over and continue along Bakers Lane to the first footpath on the left, leading onto Westleton Common. The path curves round to the right in front of a bench and continues ahead past King’s Farm to a lane. Turn left then first right along a footpath over Westleton Heath, a National Nature Reserve, which is part of the Suffolk Sandlings. The Sandlings take their name from the sandy soil and make up a very small, but significant, percentage of lowland heath still remaining in the world. The heath is at its most colourful when the heather and gorse are out in summer. Turn right at the road and take the next left to Sandy Lane Farm, where you join the Sandlings Walk. Turn right to the road junction at Dunwich.
2. The Sandlings Walk is now joined by the Suffolk Coast Path, and the two continue ahead along the road. But before doing so, it’s worth stopping to look at St James’ Church. In the churchyard are the remains of the medieval chapel that served the leper hospital, and a buttress from the former 14th-century All Saints Church, which fell over the cliff in the early 20th century. Its last buttress was rebuilt here. Along the road you’ll pass the museum, well worth a visit when open (www.dunwichmuseum.org.uk). It tells the story of Dunwich, one of the largest ports in England in the 13th century, subsequently lost to the sea. Where the road turns right, keep ahead along the signed path, which takes you past the remains of Greyfriars Friary on your right – part of ancient Dunwich. The site is open to the public at any time (access through a gate). Turn right alongside the wall, then left through Greyfriars Wood and continue to a road. Soon, turn left to continue following the combined Coast Path/Sandlings Walk, crossing a lane en route.
3. At a four-way junction, turn left and bear left at the next junction then right, keeping to the left path at a fork. This leads across Dunwich Heath to the Coastguard Cottages, where you’ll find the National Trust shop and café. From the low cliffs here, there are fine views along the coast in each direction. The Sizewell power station can’t be missed!
4. Continue on the Suffolk Coast Path down towards the beach. You can walk along the beach if you like (easier when the tide is out), but the official Coast Path runs just inland, along the east side of the RSPB’s Minsmere Nature Reserve, passing a public viewing point.
5. At the Minsmere Sluice, turn right along the footpath to Eastbridge. Head north along the lane, continuing along a track through the trees to a road junction. Bear left here back to Westleton. If you have time, the thatched church is worth a look at the end.