Developed by: Ted Spiller
[1] Start at the bandstand in the centre of Sparkhill Park. The park, laid out over medieval high fields in 1904, is the largest open space in the area. Its pond has been filled-in but the cast iron bandstand survives.
Follow the wide brick path away from Stratford Road to the arched gateway at the rear of the park. For easy access (wheelchairs and/or buggies) go through the arch and turn right along Park Road. For standard access, turn right onto the park’s perimeter path just before the arch, and turn left up a stepped ramp where the path bends right, then turn right at the top of the ramp to exit onto Park Road.
[2] Continue along Park Road to the T-junction and turn right briefly into Showell Green Lane. The Zinnia Centre on the right-hand side is a new hospital for people with mental health problems. Named after a Caribbean flower, it was opened in 2008 by Levi Roots, known for promoting his Reggae Reggae sauce on Dragon’s Den. Cross Showell Green Lane outside the Zinnia Centre and turn left to cross Phipson Road and turn right into it. At the end of Phipson Road, cross Yardley Road and continue ahead along Cadbury Road on its left-hand pavement, past varied villas. Cross Anderton Park Road and continue ahead into Birchwood Crescent on its left-hand pavement.
[3] Follow Birchwood Crescent around a right-hand bend, above a flight of wide steps, then turn first left through a gate into Balsall Heath Park. This patch, Birmingham’s smallest Victorian Park, was laid out over the infilled Lady Pool. Many of the park’s mature trees were felled by the tornado that devastated the area in 2005. Follow the tarmac path along the left edge of the park to the exit on Taunton road, opposite The Brighton. Turn left briefly into Taunton Road, then right at the traffic lights to cross Taunton Road into Ladypool Road, on its right-hand pavement.
[4] Walk on past the Brighton pub on your left (built 1875 as a hotel to serve the nearby railway station) and The Clifton pub (also on the left, named after Brunel’s suspension bridge, which features on its sign) into the Balti Triangle area. The balti dish was first introduced to Britain here in the 1970s by local Pakistani and Kashmiri communities, and the district is now home to some fifty Balti restaurants and sweet centres. Fresh ingredients and spices are fast cooked over dangerously high flames and served in the cooking bowl. Traditionally they are eaten with the hands using naan breads – some as large as the glass topped tables. Continue across several side roads past sari shops and Balti houses, the cross Leamington Road and turn right into it.
[5] At the end of the short cul-de-sac, go through an Islamic arched gateway into a large open area. This breathing space was created as part of an urban renewal plan, on the site of former terraces. Follow the tarmac path ahead along the left side of the park and go through another gateway at the far corner onto Stoney Lane (the old Worcestershire boundary on the line of Spark Brook, which now runs below ground). Cross Stoney Lane, using the pedestrian lights to the left, and turn right into this road, then turn first left into Fulham road. Follow Fulham Road uphill past (at its upper end) some substantial villas. (On the right, note No. 62-60 The Laurels/Cedars with pointed Gothic windows; No. 10-8 with Islamic shaped windows; No6-4 with timbered bays on decorated corbels). At the T-junction turn left into the busy Stratford Road and cross it at the traffic lights.
The Stratford Road, a very old route turnpike in the 1720-30s, runs through the heart of Sparkhill. Formerly part of rural Worcestershire, ‘The Hill’ was built over from the 1880s and annexed by Birmingham in 1911, despite the resistance of Yardley councilors who spent a fortune on public buildings to woo the voters. The first occupants of the mostly working-class houses came from the inner city, but later migrations from Ireland, Africa, Asia, China and Somalia created today’s vibrant community.
[6] Walk uphill back along Stratford road on its left-hand pavement, past some interesting old buildings in competing architectural styles.
Mermaid Hotel (Warwick Road junction). The twin towers of this 1880s pub were destroyed by German bombers and a recent fire has wreaked further havoc, but the timbered gables, ornate arches and mermaid relief (by Boyle) survive.
St John’s Parish Church (St John’s Road corner) built 1889 (Martin and Chamberlain), with steeple and Gothic details. Inside the undivided space is spanned by big pointed arches.
Montague Burton’s former store (no 486, St John’s Road corner), the ‘Tailor of Taste’ incorporated billiard rooms into the shops to attract working class men. This Art-Deco building (build in the 1930s by Martin) still houses the Snooker Club.
Salvation Army Citadel (no 498) built on the site of the old tram depot in 1909 and now a Ghanian ‘mega church’.
The Antelope (No 512, Baker Street corner) a 1920s Mitchell & Butler’s public house (by Hobbiss) with antelope sign and ‘I tell the bright hours only’ sundial.
English Martyr’s Roman Catholic School (Evelyn Road corner) teeming with children at playtime. Further along Evelyn Road, the Roman Catholic Basilica (1923 by Sandy & Norris) in Italian Romanesque style with campanile, built to serve the Irish community.
[7] Re-cross Stratford Road using one of the islands outside the Roman-Catholic School, and walk along its right-hand pavement past some notable public buildings.
Police Station, Court and Museum (Court Road corner) where visitors can view interesting and grisly exhibits. Behind is the former Fire station whose firemen occupied most of the houses in Court Road.
Council Chamber (no 641, 1902 by Harrison), with domed clock tower in Jacobean style. The stone panels depict muses of ‘Knowledge and Justice’. Go inside to see the art-nouveau details (gate, staircase, doorhandles) and the early double glazing. When the building was converted into a public library, three-quarters of the books were borrowed in the first two weeks.
Swimming Baths, (1931 by Robinson), with boarded up entrance portico, spa-like interior and tall chimney.
[8] Walk on past the school on the right and terraced villas on the left (note No 584-598 with sculpted window heads depicting squirrels, nuts, birds, eggs, and foliage) to the corner of Sparkhill Park. For easy access, pass the first park gate and turn right through then next gate onto a wide brick path. For standard access, turn right through the first gate to enter the park, then left along the perimeter path to the brick path. Follow the wide brick path across the park, back to the bandstand.