In the Middle Ages two pilgrimages to St David’s were said to be equal to one to Rome, and three the equivalent of one to Jerusalem. Today’s wayfarers can make their way on foot along Pembrokeshire’s glorious Coast Path to the city – Britain’s smallest. The walk from Newgale to St David’s via picturesque Solva is one of the finest of many wonderful stretches along the Pembrokeshire coast. Almost all this stretch is National Trust owned land. As with the Coast Path as a whole, it’s very well served by regular buses throughout the year. So you can leave the car at St David’s, jump on a bus to Newgale and enjoy a leisurely walk back. It’s easy to extend this walk since there are several access points further along the coast, from each of which you can walk (or take a bus) back to St David’s.
[1] Alight from the bus at the café at the bottom of the hill just before the bridge. Walk back up the hill a short distance and pick up the coast path that leaves the road on the left. Route finding is very easy: just keep the sea on your left!
Look back to enjoy the views of Newgale Sands, especially impressive when the tide is well out. In spring and early summer the cliff tops are carpeted with wild flowers, while by late summer/early autumn colourful heather and gorse dominate.
After crossing one last valley you climb up onto the Gribin from where there are excellent views over Solva’s splendid sinuous harbour, a favourite with yachties.
(A) Once down by the harbour itself you’ll pass a number of 18th/19th century lime kilns. The lime was used to fertilise the poor soils of the area.
(B) Situated at the end of a long inlet, Solva (SM806243) is probably the most attractive village on the coast path and a very agreeable place to while away a little time.
[2] When you’re ready to move on, walk down the west side of the harbour and follow the Coast Path signs that direct you uphill past a few houses and back onto the cliff top.
Once again, there’s an excellent view of Solva’s harbour.
Continue to head west, and note the good views towards distant Ramsey Island.
(C) On the headland between Caer Bwdy and Caerfai Bays is an impressive Iron Age hill fort. The purple sandstone used for St David’s Cathedral comes from the cliffs here.
[3] From Caerfai Bay (SM759244) it’s about 1km/½ mile by road into St David’s, should you wish to cut the walk short.
However, it’s worth walking on to the next bay, St Non’s (SM753243),
(C) St Non's is named after St David’s mother. David is said to have been born on the site of the ruined chapel here. There is also a ‘holy well’ and modern chapel and retreat.
From here, you can take a footpath or lane into St David’s.
Access points to/from the coast thereafter are somewhat further from St David’s, but no more than c.3km/1¾ miles. When the Celtic Coaster service is operating (from March to September) you could catch a bus from Porthclais, St Justinian or Whitesands, if you want a longer coastal walk.
[4] The route ends when you reach the centre of St David’s (SM754253).
St David's is no more than a village in size, its cathedral and ruined Bishop’s Palace built into a hollow below the houses and shops. As a good pilgrim, you shouldn’t miss the cathedral!