Situated in the southernmost part of the Snowdonia National Park are the lovely, little-walked Tarren Hills that run down to the sea at Aberdovey. Separated from Cader Idris by the Dysynni Valley and Tal-y-llyn, and from Plynlimon by the Dovey, this compact range of hills provides some excellent crowd-free walking– notably along the fine ridge that extends for several miles in a southwest direction from the Tarrens’ highest point, Tarren y Gesail (667m/2188ft). This exhilarating, linear route keeps to the open slopes, with an ascent of Tarrenhendre from the south to start, then along the ridge back to Aberdovey. On a fine day, the extensive views are superb.
(A) The route starts from Aberdovey – spelt Aberdyfi in Welsh – a pretty village resort, facing south across the Dyfi estuary and sheltered by the Tarren Hills to the north. With its clean golden sands and variety of watersports, it’s duly popular with visitors.
[1] From the bus stop, turn left (north) up Tower Road. (NB Information panels and public conveniences just off main road/A493.) At the first fork you reach, bear left and continue north to the farm at Pennal-isaf (SH703019).
[2] Leaving the tarmac, follow the path that goes round the back of the farm. The path now climbs quite steeply up grassy slopes in a roughly northerly direction towards Mynydd Cefn-caer. Behind you, across the beautiful River Dovey/Afon Dyfi, rise the Plynlimon hills. Where the path seems to fade, just keep heading north onto the crest. Continue in the same direction to meet an extension of a forest road by a stile (at SH702037). The way is now very clear as you follow this track, which curves round the head of the valley and leads you up to the skyline and its ridge-top path (with fence running alongside). Turn left to continue the ascent to the summit of Tarrenhendre (SH684040) and a crossing fence. The highest point – 634m/2080ft – lies a little further on across the peaty summit plateau.
[3] Turn left at the crossing fence, keeping the fence on your right. A small cairn lies on the other side of the fence nearby. The path now heads downhill along the ridge – easy walking complemented by excellent views, and often to be enjoyed quite alone.
[4] Trum Gelli (SH656015) is marked by two substantial cairns. The path now keeps well to the east of the ridge and fence line as it continues its descent to reach a crossing track (at SH646001). Carry on in the same direction over Bryn Dinas down to the Happy Valley/Cwm Maethlon road (SN629985).
[5] Turn left along the road, then take the first right past some dwellings and follow a track up through the woods beyond. Once clear of the trees, continue in the same direction up the slopes until you reach a small road that will lead you down to Aberdovey 1km/½ mile to the south.
Alternatively take the track forking right along the Panorama Walk to the next turning on the left to take a slightly longer route to Aberdovey along footpaths. Turn left when you reach the railway and then right to take you down to the sea.
[6] The walk finishes in Aberdovey by the seafront.