The 96km/60-mile Ceredigion Coast Path stretches from the Dyfi estuary in the north to the Teifi in the south, where it links with the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It was officially opened in 2008 after work on the final new stretches was completed. Much of this work – which included clearing and excavating new paths and installing bridges, gates and stiles - was done by volunteers, notably from the Ceredigion Ramblers. A fine example (which you’ll see for yourself on this walk) is the splendid stretch of path cut into the formidably steep cliff-side, south of Cymtydu. Before it was created, walkers were obliged to follow an inland route along roads. This linear walk - which includes some of the most spectacular scenery of the whole Coast Path - is easily accomplished with the aid of the regular bus services between New Quay and Aberporth.
(A) The former shipbuilding centre of New Quay is a popular holiday resort today - not to be confused with North Cornwall’s equally popular Newquay! Dylan Thomas lived here for a time and used it as the model for Llareggub (just in case you need it pointing out, try spelling the name backwards...) in his play Under Milk Wood.
[1] Turn right out of the car park and take the next left, Mason’s Square, which bears round to the right to become Water Street, then go left again along Lewis Terrace. This leads to the Coast Path, where you should head west, and some of Ceredigion’s finest cliffs.
(B) Just over 1km along the Coast Path you’ll reach a restored look-out shelter above Birds Rock – the most important seabird colony in the county. Thousands of guillemots perch on the ledges from March to July, while kittiwakes can be seen here between May and August.
It’s about 6.5km/4 miles from New Quay to Cymtydu.
The small cove of Cymtydu is owned by the National Trust. There’s parking above the stony beach and an old lime kiln on the other side of the road.
[2] Follow the road for a short distance, soon turning right – as signed – to go past the public conveniences and over a footbridge. The path heads inland briefly before turning back right and climbing to the cliff-top path.
There are dramatic views back down over Cymtydu and to the cliffs beyond. Soon there are even more impressive views of the cliffs ahead, with the path cut into the sheer sides.
This may look a little unnerving to some, but is, in fact, quite safe and broad enough not to induce vertigo.
In the distance is the Lochtyn headland and the small tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn – its outline is used as the logo for the Coast Path signs.
(C) Just before reaching the Urdd Centre – which provides activities for young people, including dry slope skiing, which you’ll be able to see – you’ll pass a stone memorial which commemorates the official opening of the Coast Path in 2008.
The path now goes round the slopes of Pen y Badell (topped by a hill-fort), before descending to picturesque Llangranog (also spelt Llangrannog), which has a lovely sandy beach.
[3] There are more fine views looking back as you carry on south from Llangranog. You head inland slightly from the coast to descend to National Trust-owned Penbryn, continuing down some steps through woodland, over a footbridge and back to the coast. It’s an easy walk from Tresaith to Aberporth, the last 1km on a surfaced path. The bus stop is just up the road (Rhiw y Plas) opposite the church.