Cadair Idris may only rank as the nineteenth highest mountain in Wales, but it’s one of the most popular and certainly the number one favourite in southern Snowdonia. It’s most commonly ascended by one of two routes: the Minffordd or Pony Path. Yet its highest point, Penygadair, is just one top along a splendid seven-mile escarpment, the western half of which is ignored by most. This route, which starts from the unspoilt and delectable Dysynni valley, mostly avoids the crowds and combines an ascent of Cadair Idris by a longer but quieter approach with a super walk along this little-trodden ridge. On a clear day, the views are some of the very finest in Southern Snowdonia.
(A) Before setting off on the walk it’s worth having a look in the little church. It houses an exhibition about Mary Jones, a local girl who in 1800, aged 15, walked barefoot from Llanfihangel-y-pennant to Bala (some 40km/25 miles) to procure from the Reverend Thomas Charles a copy of the Welsh Bible. This act led to the formation of the British and Foreign Bible Society. Inside the church, too, is an interesting three-dimensional cloth map of the Dysynni Valley.
[1] Head north along the road and across the Afon Cadair.
(B) Just over the bridge is a monument to Mary Jones who lived in the now ruined cottage here.
Stay on the road, which runs alongside the Afon Cadair, to its end, continuing on the broad gravel track. This climbs steadily uphill to Hafotty Gwastadfryn.
[2] Continue north on the track (ignoring one to your left) and cross a stream. Soon after you leave this broad track at a gate and bear right along a signed bridleway path. It leads you up to the col (Rhiw Gwredydd) on the main escarpment, where you meet the Pony Path that goes on up to the top of Cadair Idris (Penygadair).
[3] Turn right here and follow the well-used stony path up to the summit of Penygadair (893m/2930ft), where there’s a trig point and shelter. Return the same way – about a 2-hour round trip.
Back at the col keep ahead and follow the fence-line along the crest, keeping the fence on your right. Craig-las – or Tyrrau Mawr, as it’s also known – is the first top you come to on the ridge.
There’s an excellent little grassy ‘viewing platform’ on the other side of the fence. The seaward view takes in the Mawddach estuary, with Barmouth, its bridge, and the long arm of the Lleyn Peninsula in the distance. Below, embedded like jewels, are the Cregennan Lakes.
Continue along the ridge to the end of Craig-y-llyn. You lose the fence for a short while as the distinct path descends to a col and carries on along the edge of the escarpment bearing Northwest towards the plantation on Braich Ddu, where you pick up a fence again on your left. Once past the trees the path bears left along the top of Craig Cwm-llwyd, descending to meet a broad track.
[4] Turn left and take the second footpath on the left, which becomes a bridleway leading you down Mynydd Pen-rhiw back to the Dysynni valley. (NB Keep to the signed bridleway path, ignoring the farmer’s tracks which sometimes coincide).
There are superb views on the descent.
[5] Just beyond the farm of Bodilan Fach, turn left on a path through fields around the foot of the hill, then right across a bridge and along a farm lane back to the start.