Of all of Cornwall’s wonderful coastline, stretches of the north coast and the Land’s End Peninsula must share first prize for the most dramatic cliff scenery to be found anywhere on the South West Coast Path. The latter, especially, with its great cliffs of golden granite offers some of the most stimulating and memorable miles of any UK coast path. To whet your appetite, this route samples one very fine and varied stretch of coast on the north and west sides of the Peninsula, taking in rugged cliffs, mining relics, splendid headlands and beautiful coves.
[1] Alight from the bus at the Gurnard’s Head inn (SW436376) and follow the access drive beside it that heads north, continuing on a footpath signed for Gurnard’s Head which leads down the grass towards the coast and the distinctive headland of that name. When you reach the Coast Path navigation thereafter is quite simple: turn left and follow the Coast Path signs (with the National Trail acorn symbol), keeping the sea on your right all the way! The excellent South West Coast Path Association grades the section from St Ives to Pendeen Watch – of which the stretch from Gurnard’s Head is the last few miles - as ‘severe’ on account of the rough and rocky terrain, but in fact the last couple of miles are considerably easier going.
Having passed the very scenic area around Porthmeor Cove you’ll come to Bosigran cliff, the only point where the exact route might be confusing. You head slightly inland and up to the rocky ridge, on the other side of which the ongoing route should be clear again. This is a favourite spot with climbers. Further on you’ll reach Portheras Cove – a good beach for a swim in summer – and from there it’s an easy walk to the lighthouse at Pendeen Watch.
[2] From the lighthouse, the path goes along the road for a short distance, then turns off right.
The next few miles of coast from here to Cape Cornwall were once the scene of intense mining activity (tin and copper), as will be obvious from the many visible reminders of these bygone days. The combination of the raw beauty of the Atlantic coast and the mining landscape makes this a very atmospheric area. Tall chimneys of former mines still pierce the skies, while the last of the working mines – Geevor – is now a visitor centre where you can experience at first hand the harsh conditions the miners endured. You’ll pass the Levant Beam Engine and, at Botallack Head, the much-photographed ruined engine houses perched on the cliff edge.
Further on you descend from the headland of Kenidjack Castle to cross the valley, and before long reach Cape Cornwall.
Its shapely headland surmounted by a chimney is worth a detour.
[3] There now follow several glorious miles of coast to Whitesand Bay and Sennen Cove. Having crossed the Cot Valley the path heads due south to the sandy beaches of Whitesand Bay, which can be walked at low tide. Sennen Cove is a favourite with surfers and popular with families, so can get very busy. But it’s a lovely place to finish a walk at sunset.