Overlooked by many on their way to the more dramatic Highlands further north, the Scottish Borders region affords some of the finest and quietest walking terrain in the country. Here, in this unspoilt and relatively little-known area, are rounded, grassy hills, moorland, forests and river valleys where you can often walk all day and not meet a soul. This walk around Ettrick Forest – through which flow the two roughly parallel valleys of Ettrick Water and its tributary, Yarrow Water – provides an excellent introduction to the area. It includes the Three Brethren (three distinctive cairns), an exhilarating stretch of the Southern Upland Way and a return down the historic Minchmoor Road. The far-reaching views are splendid.
[1] Head up the signed track for Broadmeadows Youth Hostel, which lies just east of Yarrowford’s village hall. Broadmeadows was the first SYHA Youth Hostel, opened in 1931, and is situated on the hillside overlooking the Yarrow valley. Continue north up the path behind the hostel, then bear right and along a stretch of boardwalk, before following the wide track which climbs north-east.
Near the saddle north of Foulshiels Hill there are superb views to the south-west up the Yarrow Valley.
Cross Long Philip Burn and continue in the same direction to meet with the Southern Upland Way (NT438312).
[2] Turn left and head up to the Three Brethren, which you’ll have seen well before now (unless the visibility is very poor).
The identical stone-built cairns are around 3m/10ft tall – dwarfing the nearby trig point - and each marks the boundary of the estates of Yair and Philiphaugh and the burgh of Selkirk. This is a marvellous viewpoint: the distinctive Eildon Hills to the east should be easily spotted.
[3] The route is very straightforward from here as you continue westwards along the wide track that is the Southern Upland Way (SUW). Frequent marker-posts guide you along the southern edge of Yair Forest, round the north side of Broomy Hill and along the Old Drove Road uphill to the summit of Brown Knowe (NT388326).
(B) This is part of one of the many old drove roads which pass through the Borders. Brown Knowe (523m/1,716ft) marks the highest point of the route. Descend to meet the junction with Minchmoor Road.
[4] If you have time, it’s worth continuing along the SUW for another 2km/mile or so (though the views are more restricted by the trees) then turning left up to the summit of Minch Moor (567m/1,860ft) – another excellent viewpoint.
Otherwise, retrace your steps to the junction with Minchmoor Road. Head down Minchmoor Road, which follows a ridge between two burns, eventually reaching Hangingshaw Wood. Continue down and back into Yarrowford.