Of the several valleys which rise in and dissect the Cheviots, none is more charming than the Coquet through which runs one of England’s loveliest rivers. It’s a bit of a journey up delightful Coquetdale, but well worth it. South of the river is the Otterburn Training Area live firing range, where access is restricted. Thankfully, though, not to the north where a variety of routes combining ridges, valleys and the beautiful Border Ridge – the finest of the long ridges – can be devised. “In Northumberland alone, both heaven and earth are seen; we walk all day on long ridges, high enough to give far views of moor and valley, and the sense of solitude far below .... It is the land of far horizons…” said Northumberland-born historian and rambler G M Trevelyan. It’s apt indeed, especially for the English/Scottish border ridge, from which the far-reaching views are superb.
[1] Follow the road north from the car park for around 500m, then turn right onto a bridleway and head north along the route marked ‘Border County Ride’ on the OS map. This takes you round the east side of Barrow Hill and up to a crossing of tracks. Continue ahead over Ward Law and – now bearing north-west - on towards Windy Gyle (619m/2032ft, NT855153).
[2] Cross the border fence to reach the large cairn and trig point that mark the summit. A signpost nearby indicates the route of the Pennine Way.
On a clear day the views are exceptional, encompassing the Northumbria coast, northern Pennines, Lakes, Cheviots and Southern Uplands (the Eildon Hills are easily identified). It’s truly a ‘land of far horizons’.
Now head west, following the fenceline and the route of the Pennine Way. Because of the erosion caused by thousands of Pennine Way walkers over the years, much restoration work has taken place along the next few miles. Flagstones pave the way providing a firm underfoot route to follow.
[3] A couple of miles from Windy Gyle, ‘The Street’ route descends to the south leading back down to the road 1.5km/1 mile from the start. This is a good option if you want a shorter walk.
Otherwise continue along the Pennine Way over Mozie Law, Beefstand Hill and Lamb Hill to the mountain refuge hut at Yearning Saddle (NT804129).
[4] There’s a choice of two shortcuts from here if you wish, taking footpaths descending to the Coquet Valley. One by the lovely Blind Burn, meeting the main route just after [5] and the other over Carlcroft Hill, taking you to [6].
Alternatively, Continue along the Pennine Way for another 3km/1¾ miles to Black Halls, where a signpost indicates a bridleway off to the left to Deel’s Hill. Follow this, soon picking up a good track. This leads you over Deel’s Hill (NT 804102), from which there are lovely views, with the Coquet valley running below to the right. The path descends to meet the valley road at Buckham’s Bridge (NT824107).
[5] Turn left along the road by the infant waters of the Coquet (take care when walking by the road).
[6] On reaching Carlcroft (NT838115), you can leave the road and take the bridleway that heads eastwards across the northern slopes of the valley bringing you back down to the road further on (1.5km/1 mile from the start).
Otherwise continue on the road back to the car park.