The area is a National Nature Reserve in the care of the National Trust for Scotland. Extending south from St Abbs to Berwick-upon-Tweed is the 24km/15-mile Berwickshire Coastal Path. Though quite possible to walk it in a day, in order to have time to enjoy visiting St Abbs Head first and a look around historic Berwick at the end, it’s better to spread it over two days. This route, which combines a short out-and-back walk to St Abbs Head with the first half of the Berwickshire Coast Path to Burnmouth, should hopefully encourage you to continue to Berwick another day.
[1] First part - north from St Abbs
From the harbour, head up the road past the church and onto a clearly marked path on your right signed for St Abbs Head. Having emerged from the trees onto the open cliffs, you’ll find a notice board showing the trails around the St Abbs Head Nature Reserve. Follow the coast path round Starney Bay and past Kirk Hill to the lighthouse (not open to the public).
(A) St Abbs Head Lighthouse began service in 1872 and was finally automated in 1993. Climb the small hillock nearby, on top of which there is a directional disc and several information panels. It’s a fine viewpoint.
[2] Descend the north side to the lighthouse access road and turn left along this down to Pettico Wick.
Alternatively you can keep closer to the high cliff edges – home to thousands of screeching seabirds (the nesting season for most of these is between April and late July) – but this will involve a very steep descent down a grassy gully to Pettico Wick.
There are excellent views from here. Pettico Wick marks a line of weakness between two very different types of rock, as described on one of the nearby information panels.
[3] Leave the road and turn south to Mire Loch, following the path along its west side (there’s one on the other side too). At the end of the loch, turn left and rejoin your outward route to return to St Abbs.
[4] Second part - south from St Abbs.
From the harbour it is now simply a matter of keeping the sea on your left and following the Coast Path signs.
(B) About 1.5km/1 mile from the village is Coldingham Bay, a wide sweep of sand popular with holidaymakers in summer.
Approaching Eyemouth the path goes round a caravan park, then drops down to the town and busy fishing port, passing some information panels on the way – one of which describes the great storm of 1881 in which many local men lost their lives.
[5] Continue around the harbour – crossed by a footbridge - to join a road on the other side. Follow this road (the current OS Explorer map shows a slightly different route here), then turn left as signed across the golf course back to the coast and go right. There’s some fine cliff-top walking now with splendid views all the way to Burnmouth.
The Coast Path reaches the road at Burnmouth (the upper part; the lower is at the foot of the cliff) by a phone box and bus stop. You can catch a bus here back to St Abbs.