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Birmingham, West Midlands

Difficulty Leisurely

Walking time 4 hours 01 minutes

Length 13.0km / 8.1mi

Route developer: Mark Rowe

Route checker: Philip Cheesewright

Start location New Street station
Route Summary A circular walk along Birmingham’s canals to Spaghetti Junction, mostly along level streets, but with some steps down to canals and busy road junctions. Optional deviation to Aston Hall.
*move mouse over graph to see points on route
Getting there

Birmingham New Street is at the center of the national rail network, with direct trains from many cities (08457 484950, www.nationalrail.co.uk).

Description

[1]  Exit New Street station (SP069866) onto Stephenson Street. Turn right and follow the street round to New Street. Turn right past the Odeon cinema to the end.  Bear right through the Bull Ring Centre, heading for the spire of St Martins church. The landmark Selfridges building is on your left.

(A) Putting one foot in front of another here was once an act of madness, as this used to be the Bull Ring – the once fearsome and now thoroughly tamed anti-walking road layout of the 1960s. The area has now been developed into a leading shopping centre. Nelson's Statue in the Bull Ring:  The bronze statue of Horatio Nelson by Richard Westmacott (1775–1856) was the first publicly funded statue in Birmingham, and the first statue of  Nelson in Britain. It was made in 1809 by public subscription of £2,500 by the people of Birmingham following Nelson's visit to the town on 31 August 1802, the year before he sailed against the fleets of Napoleon. The statue was unveiled on 25 October 1809, that being the day decreed as the official golden jubilee of George III.

[2]  At Nelson's statue go down the steps and past the church frontage  to reach St Martin’s market – a good place to pick up a picnic lunch – and turn left to reach Moat Lane.

(B) St Martins in the Bull Ring: The present Victorian church was built on the site of a 13th-century predecessor, which was documented in 1263. The church was enlarged in medieval times and the resulting structure consisted of a lofty nave and chancel, north and south aisles and a northwest tower with spire. In 1690, the churchwardens "dressed the church in brick". All was cased in brick with the exception of the spire. In 1853, the brick casing was removed from the tower by Hardwick who added the open-air pulpit. The church also contained an organ.  In 1873, the church was demolished and rebuilt by architect J. A Chatwin, preserving the earlier tower and spire. During the demolition, medieval wall paintings and decorations were discovered in the chancel, including one showing the charity of St Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar. Two painted beams were also found behind the plaster ceiling.

The exterior is built of rockfaced Grimshill stone. The interior is of sandstone with an open timber roof,  which shows the influence of the great hammerbeam roof of  Westminster Hall. The beams are decorated with fine tracery and end in large carvings of angels. The Victorian floor tiles are by  MInton and display the quartered arms of the  de Bermingham family

Turn right then after 30m cross Moat Lane by the pedestrian crossing. Continue right, following the pavement round to the left to reach Digbeth High Street.

[3]  Cross the High Street opposite the police station. Turn right then immediately left along Meriden Street. Cross Coventry Street and pass under the impressive viaduct of the old Great Western Railway. Soon enough the street becomes New Canal Street,

(C) Meriden Street is an often bustling road crammed with wholesalers and cash and carry outfits selling everything from mattresses to carpets and much more besides. The buildings, some of which are of impressive quality used to be at  the heart of Birmingham manufacture.

[4]  Turn right along Fazeley Street, signposted for the Digbeth branch canal. At an unpromising humpback bridge turn left, and drop down to the canal and turn right.

(D) If you continue ahead for a short way beyond the bridge you will find the canal offices of the 1840s and 1850s and the 1935 built warehouse of the Fellows Morton and Clayton canal carrying company, which together with other buildings including the factories just mentioned form part of the Warwick Bar Conservation Area which includes 'The Bond' office and media complex.

[5]  After 50m, cross a cast iron bridge then turn left back under the bridge onto the Digbeth Branch canal, signposted  to Bordesley Junction. Keep on for 400m to Bordesley Junction, passing the actual 'Warwick Bar' which is the lock next to the green shed of a former banana warehouse, then the curved back wall of the Fellows Morton and Clayton canal warehouse. You pass under a disused railway viaduct, built in 1845 to link the Birmingham & Oxford Juntion Railway to the Grand Junction Railway, but never actually used.

[6]  At Bordesley Junction turn left under the bridge, picking up the Birmingham and Warwick Junction Canal, part of the Grand Union Canal which drills north for more than two miles to Gravelly Hill.

(E)   The Birmingham and Warwick Junction Canal:  The trapdoors in the bridges designed to allow fire hoses to be fed from the canal during wartime.This is no gentrified stroll alongside pastel-hued locks and towpaths. Bottles and other clutter blight several stretches, and many lock gates are ageing rough-hewn slabs of wood. But it is a fascinating cross- section of industrial and historical Birmingham. Bridge 101 bears scars from a World War II air raid; the Luftwaffe followed the canals as they gleamed in moonlight. Hard against the canal are seemingly derelict factories. But while the brass foundries and button factories have gone, most are still busy and I was accompanied by the sound of chainsaws and reversing freight vehicles. Odours, too, are striking: the pong of stagnant water mixed with more aromatic smells from unseen perfume, incense and curry producers. In amongst the industry there are, however small oases of greenery and glimpses of the distant past. 

(F) Salford Junction is the name for the meeting of three canals beneath Spaghetti Junction. Underneath the canal at Spaghetti junction, the Hockley Brook, which used to power Matthew Boulton's Soho Manufactury (which led to Birmingham's rise as a manufacturing centre) meets the river Tame. On the 'Salford Turnover Bridge' look for the fake poster - some photographer has clearly thought that this area is sufficiently grim to double for Soviet Russia! As you approach, power lines, gas towers, cables, roads and skyline seem to converge, as if being sucked into a black hole of urbanisation. Pinpricks of nature are evident: small ponds and reedbeds here and there; moorhens, geese and mallards nudging around; a couple of herons; meanwhile, water voles and pipistrelle bats await the sharp-eyed walker.

(G) At the epicentre is Spaghetti Junction: six main roads converge here, including the A38 and M6. 559 columns sprawl their concrete over 12 hectares, three-storey elevated sections standing 25m above the ground. Directly underneath the M6, the traffic noise is unexpectedly muted.

[7] Underneath the M6 turn left at the first canal junction then left again under the concrete 'Salford Turnover' footbridge, following the sign for Gas Street Basin along the Birmingham to Fazeley Canal  (H)

[8]  If you wish to visit Aston Hall (I), after about 1km leave the canal at Holborn Hill Bridge. 

(I) Aston Hall: Aston Hall is one of Birmingham's most treasured buildings. Redisplayed as part of the development project, Aston Hall boasts sumptuous interiors from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, including the magnificent Long Gallery. Display rooms illustrate the part Aston Hall and its residents played in key moments in history, including the English Civil War, and how it prepared to receive royalty on more than one occasion.Aston Hall and Park are hugely popular with family audiences and have a full programme of events, activities and trails throughout the season. Admission charges apply to the Hall only. Gardens, grounds and visitor facilities are free to all vistors. There is free admission to the entire site on the first Sunday in every month during the open season. The acclaimed Astonish Gallery in the newly restored Stables Range take visitors on a journey through the Aston area. Astonish describes the history of Aston, its industries, sporting achievements and community changes through historic objects and hands on interactives.

(J) Aston Church: Aston Church was mentioned in the Domesday Book, when Aston was worth 100 shillings and Birmingham only 20. The bulk of the existing church dates from 1879-90, although the steeple is 15th century. The church contains the tomb of Ralph Arden, died 1360, who was an ancestor of William Shakespeare.(H) Aston Church: Aston Church was mentioned in the Domesday Book, when Aston was worth 100 shillings and Birmingham only 20. The bulk of the existing church dates from 1879-90, although the steeple is 15th century. The church contains the tomb of Ralph Arden, died 1360, who was an ancestor of William Shakespeare.

(K) Aston Villa Football Club: Founded 1874, founder member of the Football League in 1888, have played at Villa Park since 1897.

Turn left on Holborn Hill to the main road (Lichfield Road) then go left under the railway and cross over at the lights. Grosvenor Road is just to your left. Go up here then follow the road round to the left, which becomes Queen’s Road. Pass under the A38 Aston Expressway then continue past Aston Church (J). Ahead is Aston Villa Football Club (K), its claret, blue and gold brickwork and stained glass making it one of the more attractive football stadia. The restored Holte pub is also of interest. 50m before the pub on your left you will see the entrance to Aston Park and Aston Hall, a Jacobean riot of turrets and latticed glass and well worth a visit. Retrace you steps to the canal.

Otherwise continue along the canal towards the city centre, past old factories and new developments, and the  eleven Aston locks.

(L) Aston Locks: On this canal you may have noticed iron posts with grooves cut into them by narrowboat tow ropes. One of the locks here is unusual in that the grooves are in the brick coping. At Aston No 1 Lock note the bridge marked 'Horseley Iron Company 1828'.

[9]  At the pleasant Aston Lock 1 bridge, cross the canal and take the right fork, following signs for Gas Street Basin. You climb the  thirteen locks of the Farmers Bridge flight  to reach Cambrian Wharf, with opposite it the old canal toll house.(N)  

(M) Farmers Bridge Locks: The Farmers Bridge locks are remarkable in that they have 'side pounds' which form reservoirs which were designed to maximise traffic through the locks in dry weather. The remarkable thing is that the newer surrounding buildings are built on piles to preserve these pounds.

[10]  At Old Turn Junction - next to the National Indoor Arena - cross the curved cast iron bridge and go past the Malt Shovel pub. Cross the canal by the new footbridge next to the entrance to the International Convention Centre, turning back down the steps to reach canal level on the other side. Many pubs and restaurants are available here. Then go right and through the Broad Street tunnel to reach Gas Street Basin (O). Here at the 'Worcester Bar'  the canal becomes the Worcester and Birmingham. Keep on.

(O) Gas Street Basin: Gas Street Basin in Birmingham city centre is the heart of Britain's canal network. In days gone by it was the hub of a thriving canal transport network.Today, the bars and restaurants of Brindleyplace cluster around this attractive basin where traditional narrowboats can be seen to form an unique experience where industrial heritage meets modern, cosmopolitan living. 

Historically, Gas Street Basin was the meeting point of the Worcester & Birmingham Canal and the Birmingham Canal Main Line. For the first 30 years a solid bar - the Worcester Bar - separated the two canals so that the Birmingham Canal Navigations would not lose water to the Worcester & Birmingham. Cargoes had to be laboriously transhipped between boats on either side. The bar still exists today, with boats moored to both sides of it, but a narrow opening allows boats to navigate from one side to the other. As for the name, its explanation is simple: Gas Street was the first street in the city to have gas lighting.

[11]  Where the canal turns sharp right cross over using the aluminium bridge and bear left past restaurants then through the Mailbox shopping centre. Follow the signs (and coloured strips in the pavement) under the A38 to New Street station.

 

 

POI information

2012 marked the 40th birthday of one of the UK’s most controversial pieces of construction. Spaghetti Junction first opened its slipways and flyovers to traffic in 1972 and has, for many, symbolised our car-dominated transport system. Every day, thousands of motorists thunder through this concrete lattice, unaware that underneath lies a network of canals that lead to and from the centre of Birmingham. The city’s first canal was built in 1769 and swiftly became the lifeblood of Victorian Birmingham and the Black Country. Even today, the waterways that ring the city like a collar extend for some 100 miles and recent years has seen some much-needed TLC applied to parts of this network. This walk will never win a beauty contest, but aside from the decidedly odd experience of standing underneath a motorway, it shines a light on Birmingham’s industrial past and present.

(D) The Warwick Bar: The Warwick Bar conservation area was home to many canalside factories during the Industrial Revolution and right up to the 20th century. It is named after the Warwick Bar stop lock joining the Digbeth Branch of the  Birmingham Canal Navigations to the Warwick and Birmingham Canal (later the Grand Union Canal.  The stop lock was installed to separate the water systems of the competing canal companies, while still allowing boats to pass.

The conservation area covers an area of 40 acres where the canals meet. It was designated in 1987. It covers the entire length of the Digbeth Branch Canal through the Eastside arwa and a section of the river Rea. The conservation area includes three of the statutorily listed buildings in Birmingham, each built by the canal company in the 1840s and 1850s, and the locally listed Fellow Morton and Clayton canal warehouse built in 1935. In total, there are five listed buildings and six locally listed buildings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notes

Start/End: New Street station (SP069866).

Maps: OS Explorer 220; Landranger 139.

Eating & drinking: Many locations available nearby.

Sleeping: Large selection of accommodation available in the area.

Visitor information: There are Tourist Information Centres at the Rotunda (150 New Street) and at Birmingham Central Library, which is about to move to Broad Street (www.visitbirmingham.com).

Local Ramblers Group: City of Birmingham Ramblers (www.cobramblers.org.uk).

 

Acknowledgements

Route first appeared in Walk Magazine in Autumn 2012 (Issue 36).

Although I would expect no trouble, the canals described can be lonely places, so be confident about what you're doing before you set off.

 

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