Northern Line Walks - Walworth and the Elephant and Castle

Starting from Elephant and Castle Underground Station.

[1] Leave Elephant and Castle Station, using the Northern Line exit. Turn right, and continue round to right, past underground station entrance. Continue, with market and shopping centre on your right, under railway bridge. (New Kent Road). Continue past bus stop M, and continue for some time alongside the walls of the Heygate estate (being demolished and redeveloped), until at the end of estate, you reach the Crown and Anchor Bistro (currently up for sale, so the name may change) Cross and turn right into Rodney Place. Cross Munton Road and then shortly turn left into Victory Community Park (A). Follow path along walkway, past basketball court on your left. Continue along main path, as it bears right past playground and then left, to leave park at Balfour Street. Cross road and head into John Maurice Close. At the end, continue on pedestrian path.  Shortly, turn left (Searles Road) and, immediately before the main road, turn left, into Paragon Gardens. Make a circuit of the Garden and then cross Searles Road into a second section of Paragon Gardens (B).

(B) Paragon Gardens is named after the impressive buildings designed by Michael Searles (1750–1813), erected here in 1787. Six blocks of semi-detached houses linked by a single-story colonnade fronted the New Kent Road. He subsequently built a similar development at Blackheath, also called the Paragon, which survives to this day. The New Kent Road buildings were demolished in the 1890s to be replaced by more modest housing and a school, which has since been converted into apartments.

[2] Follow the path and keeping right, leave the Garden opposite the red-bricked, former Paragon School. Cross road (Searles Road) and turn left on far side. Keep right at fork. At end, go past barrier and turn right (Darwin Street). Fork right into Chatham Street and, at the traffic-calming raised table by no.139, turn left and cross into park, Salisbury Row Park (C). Go up a ramp and turn right on the path, heading towards a children’s playground. Turn sharp left at the playground and continue straight on, at path cross-roads, into another section of park. At a small brick circle, with a tree and seat, turn right towards Darwin Court cafe and the red paved area. Cross Barlow Street (shared surface – beware cars) and turn left at the cafe. At a former pub, The Victory, turn right (Catesby Street), crossing to left hand side at traffic-calming raised table. Use the zebra crossing to cross Elsted Street and then, turn left, opposite the Catholic Church of the English Martyrs (D), into Flint Street.

(D) The Catholic Church of the English Martyrs dates from the early 1900s. The English Martyrs were the men and women who died for the Roman Catholic faith, during the reformation.

[3] Turn right, at the zebra crossing, into Dean's Buildings. Continue straight on past Dawes Street (Toilets, during market hours). At end, cross Jacob Street to enter (E) Nursery Row Park .

(E) Nursery Row Park is named after a street which was demolished in the 1980s to extend the then East Street Recreation Ground. That part dates back to 1897, when the land was purchased for £5,375 and the landscaping cost £1,000. The London Plane trees, around the edge of the park, date from that time. The park was renovated in 2006/7 and includes 2 play areas, a wildlife meadow and a community orchard (see http://www.nurseryrowpark.org.uk for more information).

Fork right and by playground, fork left to go up hill, towards coloured pillars.  At top, pause, for the view. (Note the new tall buildings in the distance.  On the left is the Strata, which we pass later on the walk.  To the right is the Shard at London Bridge and the Gherkin, in the City)  

The Shard (Under construction in August 2011). When completed in 2012 it will be the tallest building in Europe, at 310m tall and have 72 floors, plus 15 further radiator floors in the roof. The Gherkin (2004) - strictly 30 St Mary Axe, or the Swiss Re Building is 180 metres tall with 40 floors, it stands on the former site of the Baltic Exchange, which was severely damaged in 1992, by an IRA bomb. The architect is Norman Foster.

At top of hill, turn left, to go down towards rust coloured steel arches and continue through arches to leave the park at East Street (F), opposite Marshall House.

(F) East Street Market is one of London's oldest, largest and busiest markets dating back to1880 and is open daily, except on Mondays.  It is at it's busiest on Sunday mornings when there are some 250 stalls including a plant market.  East Street is also the birthplace of Charlie Chaplin and features in the title sequence to the television programme Only Fools and Horses. 

[4] Turn right and walk through Market, crossing Portland Street and then turn left into Blackwood Street. At the end turn right, where it becomes Date Street and, shortly, turn left to enter Faraday Gardens (G). Continue along main path and by school, fork right alongside playground.

(G) Faraday Gardens are situated in the Faraday council ward and are named after Michael Faraday the famous 19th century scientist (see notes below for further information).

[5] At playground, turn left up slope (be careful when wet), into St Peter’s Churchyard. Fork right into community garden, alongside church and go to the front.

(H) St. Peter's Church, Walworth was built between 1823 and 1825 and is an excellent example of the neo-classical style of church built by Sir John Soane, who was famous as the designer of the Bank of England. During World War II some 65 people, sheltering from the bombs died when bombs hit the church. Today the church has been restored back to its original interior colour scheme and the crypt has been converted into an Arts and Community centre. (See notes below for more detail)

[6] At front of church, go out to road and continue straight on (Liverpool Grove) to main road. Turn right (Walworth Road), cross Cadiz Street and then use pedestrian lights to cross and continue along left hand side of Walworth Road. Almost immediately, turn left, into Sutherland Walk and go under railway, where road becomes Sutherland Square. Continue straight on at gardens, following road round to left and almost immediately right to leave square.

[7] Use zebra crossing, to go across Penrose Street and along path, under flats. Keep ahead and path comes out at Lorrimore Road. Turn right into Chapter Road passing on the left, St Pauls Church (I).

(I) St Pauls and Lorrimore Square was hit by bombs during World War II and the original church burned down leaving only the steeple. The current church was built in 1959–60, and is Grade II listed. The church and church hall are unusually on the first floor leaving the ground floor easily accessible as a day centre and work area. It is a reinforced concrete building, with a steep folded plate timber roof, which is covered in green copper. The external walls include reclaimed stone from the original church.

[8] Cross Carter Street and shortly before bend turn right to enter Pasley Park (J), (previously Surrey Gardens). Take left path and keep left past playground.

(J) Pasley Park  may seem an 'ordinary' park today but if you had been here in the 1830s you would have heard the roar of tigers, seen fireworks and enjoyed attractive gardens and musical performances. See notes for more detail.

[9] Leave park at Manor Place entrance, next to Children’s playground. Use pedestrian island, on right, to cross to Walworth Garden Farm (K).

(K) Walworth Garden Farm is a local charity which, since 1987, has turned a small derelict site into a well stocked garden farm and City and Guilds training centre. It has fruit, vegetable and flowerbeds, green-houses, apiary for bees, a wildlife garden and a sitting out area. The centre runs many workshops for primary schools, including pond dipping and junior beekeeping. Visitors are welcome to wander round but groups should pre-book (more details www.walworthgardenfarm.org.uk).

[10] Turn right, on far side and, then, turn left, into Delverton Road and right, into Tarver Road. At end cross and turn left (Berryfield Road). Follow road round to right and, at cross-roads, fork right to go along Thrush Street path, alongside park. By No. 10 turn left into Pullens Open Space (L).

[11] Go left, along winding path, past playground and leave park opposite 196 - 210. Turn left and shortly turn right along Penton Place. Cross Iliffe Street. (Note stucco decoration on Pullens Buildingson your right).  Cross Canterbury Place and shortly turn right, by newsagents, along a wide path through Newington Estate, towards the Strata.

[12] Continue along path until you reach a small playground on your left and, immediately after ball-park, turn left, and go through barriers, by Hampton Court Palace Pub. Continue straight along Hampton Street and at main road (Newington Butts) turn right.

[13] At main road junction by the Strata (M), use pedestrian lights to go straight on, with the Metropolitan  Tabernacle (N) on left and the Elephant and Castle shopping centre (O) on the right. (Toilets and cafes). Go past entrance to shopping centre and bus-stops and shortly arrive at the Elephant and Castle Underground station.

(M) The Strata - 42 storeys high and a symbol for the renaissance of the area. (N) Metropolitan Tabernacle - rebuilt in 1957 after wartime bombing, the portico dates back to 1861. (O) The Shopping Centre opened in 1965  was the first American style Shopping Mall in Europe.

 (See notes below for further information on the Strata, Tabernacle and the Shopping Centre)

 General Background

This area started life as two prosperous villages, Walworth and Newington, set among market gardens, fields and open marshland. 18th century Walworth was a prosperous suburb. In Victorian times the population boomed, increasing by eightfold, bringing with it significantly more housing, commerce and above all, traffic.  It acquired the name Elephant and Castle from a coaching inn that stood at this busy intersection.

Prior to 1940 the Elephant and Castle was known as the “Piccadilly of South London”: a vibrant quarter with entertainment, markets, trams, public squares and a sense of community. The 4,000-seater South London Palace of Varieties played host to the stars of the day, including Dan Leno and Marie Lloyd; the Trocadero cinema, open in 1930, seated 3500 and boasted the largest Wurlitzer organ in Europe. There were grand department stores as well as dozens of smaller concerns, and a Baptist Church, the size of the Albert Hall.

The Elephant and Castle was devastated by wartime bombing. Around one third of its buildings were lost. In 1946, 50 acres were identified for redevelopment. High density, slab-block estates and a large gyratory system replaced the terraced streets. A large but unltimately unsuccessful shopping centre (see O below) was included in the master plan.  It is a classic example of large scale post war urban development that has failed to stand the test of time.

In 1999, Southwark Council launched proposals inviting developers to submit plans on a 69-hectare area, including the shopping centre and the adjacent Heygate Estate. It told developers it was a ‘blank canvas,’ on which to work. The first stages of the regeneration are nearing completion and the next, somewhat delayed, stages are currently open for public consultation. Demolition of the Heygate estate has commenced. 

Other 

(G) Michael Faraday (1791-1867) was the son of a blacksmith. He left school at 13 and was apprenticed as a book binder, where he became interested in the scientific works of the time. After hearing a lecture by the famous chemist Humphrey Davy, he sent Davy the notes he had made of his lectures. As a result, he was appointed, aged 21, as laboratory assistant to Davy at the Royal Institution in London. Faraday's subsequent research into electricity and electrolysis led him into the new field of electro-magnetism. Various units of electro-magnetism are named after him and there is also the Michael Faraday Memorial, completed in 1961, at the Elephant & Castle gyratory system. Read more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Faraday and see various videos at http://wn.com/Michael_Faraday.

(H) St. Peter's Church, Walworth. It is an indication of the wealth of the middle-class merchants, who then lived in the vicinity, that they could afford an architect of such prominence. The gentry had to pay for their seats anything from 25p to £1.10 a year for a family pew, which was a lot of money then. The more you paid the closer you sat to the heaters. Working people and the servants set upstairs.

By the end of the nineteen century the area had changed and the parishioners were poor. The priest, at the time cleared the crypt and from about 1895 provided free lunches for the children from the local school. He also set up a small zoo in the rectory garden - locals called it the 'Monkey Park'.

The crypt was used as a shelter from German bombs in both the first and second World Wars. On the 28-29th October 1940, two bombs hit the church and burst through to the crypt, where people were sleeping. At least 65 people died and many were injured. Today the crypt has been converted into an Arts and Community centre but it still has a cafe and the 'monkey park' is a lovely community garden. You can learn more at http://www.stpeterswalworth.org.

(J) Pasley Park - The Lost Zoo - The Royal Surrey Zoological Gardens were established here in the 1830s, and covered some 15 acres, with entrances in both Walworth Road and Kennington Park Road. It included ‘exotic’ animals such as elephants, tigers and alligators as well as the first giraffes, ever seen in the UK and eventually had 170 different species. The extensive pleasure gardens with a 3 acre lake and fairs, hosted fetes, fireworks and shows. At its peak there were 8,000 visitors per day but the biggest crowds were for the spectacular shows that incorporated large scale scenes of historical events, such as the eruption of Vesuvius or the Siege of Sebastopol. They used specially constructed sets and special effects such as fireworks, or burning ships. One recreation of the city of Rome covered 5 acres and used 250,000 square feet of canvas and timber. It was a favourite of Queen Victoria and the Royal children and even General Tom Thumb performed there.

However, finances were tight and the animals were literally were eating into the profits. The zoo eventually closed in 1856, when a new music hall was constructed, accommodating 12,000 people and 1,000 performers, but this was never financially successful. The Music Hall was gutted by fire in 1861 and the whole enterprise was sold. The Gardens closed in 1877 and were gradually bought up as building land leaving just this one corner as a park.

(M) The Strata (2010) - Winner of the Building Design newspaper’s Carbuncle Cup award in 2010 as the worse new building in London, the 42-storey, 147 m tall building in Elephant & Castle was nominated for its 'plain visual grotesqueness' and 'Philishave stylings'. The developer described it as like Marmite – “you either love it or hate it”. Mayor of London Boris Johnson nicknamed Strata "the lipstick" and described it as a building "with a bit of oomph about it". It is the first part of the long-planned, hugely ambitious, £1.5 billion regeneration at Elephant & Castle. 25% of its 408 apartments are earmarked for affordable housing, and 20 are reserved for residents from the Heygate Estate. The Philishave turbines at the top of the building cost £1.35m of the total budget of £113.5m and are expected to generate 8% of the building’s needs.

(N) The Metropolitan Tabernacle traces its beginnings to 1650 when non-confirmist Christian organisations faced persecution. Freedom of worship was restored in 1688 and at the beginning of the 19th century the church experienced great growth and moved to new premises accommodating 1200 people. In 1854 the young Charles Spurgeon became pastor and he quickly became the most popular British preacher of his day and services had to be held at the Royal Surrey Gardens, (see above) when he preached to audiences of over 10,000.  

A new church was required and the Metropolitan Tabernacle opened in 1861 with a capacity for 6000 people. The original building was burned down in 1898, leaving just the front portico and basement intact, before the rebuilt church was destroyed again during World War II. Once again, the portico and basement survived and in 1957, the Tabernacle was rebuilt to a new but much smaller design accommodating surviving original features.

You can learn more at http://www.metropolitantabernacle.org/History-and-C-H-Spurgeon

(O) Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre - The shopping centre opened in 1965 with the promise that it would “revolutionise shopping concepts throughout Britain.” The first of its kind in Europe it was a fully enclosed American style mall over three levels surmounted by an office block with underground parking . Budget restrictions scaled down the proportions and finishes and only 29 out of a possible 120 shops were trading when it opened. It has never achieved its potential and is scheduled for rebuilding / refurbishment.