Pre-Roman Leicester
Prior to the Romans, Britain was populated by many Celtic tribes, ruled by chiefs. From around 50 BC an Iron Age settlement developed along the east bank of the river Soar (the site of which we pass later in the walk). The people who lived here were the indigenous Celtic tribe known as the Corieltavi (or sometimes called Corieltavauri, or Coritani) whose people had settlements across what we now know as Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and parts of South Yorkshire.
Arrival of the Romans
The Roman armies of the emperor Claudius crossed the English Channel and invaded Britain in the first century, AD 43 or 44. They found a land populated by Celtic people. Some years later, around 47AD, the advancing Romans came to the place we now know as Leicester, on the east bank of the River Soar and built a fort there near where the existing local tribal settlement stood. Here, the Romans established an outpost called Ratae Corieltauvorum, strategically positioned near to the river crossing and local settlement (for food provisions). The Celts traded successfully with the Roman Army, supplying food.
The early Roman settlement is thought to have been a rectangular area, surrounded with perimeter fortifications (earth mounds and ditches, possibly with wooden walls on top). Then, from the early second century, building became more sophisticated and a substantial stone settlement based on a grid pattern was established, which included public and private buildings - the town of Corieltauvorum (Roman Leicester) emerged. Over the following centuries , the Romans developed Roman Leicester into a prosperous town.
(A) The Clock Tower
The site of the Clock Tower is the approximate location of the East Gate, one of 4 entrances to the walled Roman town. The town wall was built in stone during the late third century (replacing simple ditches and earth ramparts) as the Romans improved the town's defenses. Excavations at another location, near Sanvey Gate, indicate the wall may have been 3m wide and possibly up to 4m high.
Approximately where we are standing is where the Fosse Way, an important Roman road, passed through Leicester. The Fosse Way linked the major Roman fortresses of Exeter and Lincoln. Roman Leicester became an important stop on the route from London to Lincoln and York. It is thought that to the north of Leicester, the route of the old Fosse Way is now marked by Melton Road and Belgrave Road. To the south of Leicester, the route would have continued southwards along the line of what is now the Narborough Road.
(B) Roman Forum, Basilica and Macellum (formerly sited on the area at the top of High Street / Highcross Street and adjacent streets to the north east).
Early in the second century AD, as part of their public buildings programme, the Romans began to construct a forum and basilica on this site. These were impressive structures, likely taking 50-60 years to complete. The forum served as a market place and contained shops. The basilica housed offices and was effectively the town's administrative and judicial centre. The entire complex was large (130m x 90m), larger than a football pitch. The complex would have become an important centre for local governance, trade and commerce.
Later, in the early third century AD, to the north of the forum (market place), the Romans extended the public shopping area into a large market hall, called a macellum. This construction is a sign of Leicester's increasing prosperity during Roman times. Excavations beneath the site of the Travelodge and along Highcross Street have revealed remains of part of the macellum, but the building was large and would have extended beyond this immediate area.
(C) Jewry Wall, Baths, Basilica & Temple
Around 125-130 AD, (approx 80 years after the Romans first built their fort in Leicester) and during the same construction period as the forum and basilica (mentioned earlier), the Romans constructed the baths, the remains of which are here at the Jewry Wall site. The building of the baths, forum and basilica was funded mostly by the collection of local taxes and their construction added to the importance of Roman Leicester. During this time, the indigenous people would have benefited by being employed as builders and craftsmen.
Today, the Jewry Wall is one of the largest fragments of a Roman building still standing in Britain - it is nearly 2000 years old! The Jewry Wall was the entrance to the baths. Adjacent to the baths, partitioned by the Jewry Wall, was a basilica which housed an exercise hall. The remains of this now lie beneath St Nicholas Church.
It may have taken 30 years to actually complete the baths (by around 150 AD) and it would have been an impressive building, able to accommodate up to 1000 people at max capacity. Within the baths, three furnaces ensured there were warm and hot environments. There were also two cold water plunge baths in the complex, located where you now see semi-circular grass areas. The building had to be kept warm – hence the thick walls. Within the windows, pieces of cast glass (around 1 inch thick) were set. A constant supply of water was required, and for this the Romans built an aqueduct to provide water from a brook upstream of the town. The water was stored in cisterns. Excess water flowed out through channels and then into the river. These drains were also used to carry away waste from the two public toilets in the building. It was all very civilised! Sadly, a fire in 360AD destroyed the baths and it was never repaired. Subsequently, much of its brickwork was removed for use building the medieval town.
Why is it called the 'Jewry Wall' ?
The name Jewry Wall is not known to have any link to a Jewish quarter. Instead, the name may come from the 24 'Jurats' - medieval Borough councillors who met in the St Nicholas church yard. In medieval times, and even into the 1700s, the wall was named the 'Temple of Janus' because people thought it had been built in dedication to Janus, the Roman god of gateways. We now know that the wall was not part of a temple. However, there was a temple nearby.. . Near the site of the baths stood a Roman temple, or Mithraeum, dedicated to the Persian god Mithras.
(D) St Nicholas Church
St Nicolas is the earliest church in Leicester, dating to Anglo-Saxon times. The first recorded bishop was in 679AD. Some Norman features (including the tower) survived the changes made later in Victorian times. Ruins of the Roman basilica (which was next to the baths) are beneath the church.
(E) Beneath St Nicholas Circle is the former site of a large mid-second century Roman townhouse. In 1898 on St Nicholas Street, (now part of St Nicholas Circle) one of the finest sections of mosaic floor in Roman Britain was discovered. It's known as the Peacock Mosaic Pavement and it was part of the large town house which once stood here. The ruins of the house were excavated in 1968.
(F) The east bank of the Soar was the site of an Iron Age Settlement, from around 50BC,inhabited by the Corieltavi, the indigenous Celtic tribes people of Leicestershire and wider counties. Excavations on Bath House Lane have revealed roundhouses and pottery, and also evidence of coin production from the late first century BC, indicating that this was an important settlement for the indigenous people, prior to the arrival of the Romans.
(G) Excavations on Bath Lane have revealed Roman ruins - thought to have been a public building of some sort, but not much is known.
(H) West Bridge & West Gate
As invading Roman legions pushed northwards, it is thought that they would have crossed the Soar near to the present West Bridge. Close to this would once have stood the West Gate, one of the entrances/exits to the walled town of Roman Leicester.
A number of other Roman ruins have been discovered in Leicester, the sites of which we do not pass on this walk. However, they are worth mentioning:
(I) North Street - site of Roman townhouse
J) Former site of South Gate entrance to walled to Roman Leicester
(K) Beneath John Lewis multi-storey carpark - site of Vine Street Courtyard House.
On this site, excavations revealed Roman buildings from across the Roman period. Early Roman timber dwellings (early-mid second century) would have been part of small holdings, rearing animals. Nearby, a little later (mid-late second century) in the Roman occupation, stone buildings were constructed, at least one of which was a house belonging to a wealthy family. Later, (by the third- mid fourth century AD) some of the early building were incorporated into a substantial courtyard house, which had at least 26 rooms. These would have had concrete floors, elaborately painted walls and a Roman version of under-floor heating... the inhabitants must have been wealthy!
It is thought that larger Roman settlements like Winchester and London were cosmopolitan places, in which people from all over the Roman empire came to live. We cannot say for sure, but it is possible that this might also have been true for an important settlement such as Leicester.
Romans Leave Britannia
The last of the Roman Army left 'Britannia' in 407AD and our island ceased to be part of the Roman Empire by c. 410 AD. Many Roman buildings in Leicester fell into ruin and their stone was later used to build new structures, such as the church of St Nicholas. The regular pattern of the Roman streets became overlaid by the buildings of later centuries. With time, the ground level rose several feet above that of Roman times. By the decline of the Roman Empire in Britain, many indigenous people had become Romanised in their beliefs and culture.